Alright finally home. I shot about 10 pictures of the engine. And I also have a couple of videos to show you as well. Today when I picked the truck, it was at least moveable. BUT, the truck is lacking a TON of power, it's still just very nasty. Also, as I am breaking for a stop light and then come to a complete stop, its then when the truck will get really low in rpms ranging from 400-500 rpms. If you didn't know better you'd think the truck shut off on you because the engine just gets so quiet. Then it will slowly work its way back up to the average 700 rpm idle. But driving the truck, the truck is just really choked up feeling, it's hardly moving, and it has no explosiveness at all.

The first video here, if you watch around 50 seconds you will see what I am talking about. I was just driving along, and then suddenly the power just cuts out briefly, and then it springs right back in. It was doing this on a much more grand skill yesterday, but it has seemed to be come less frequent. Now the truck is running, but it's just very very poorly. So this link will show you that:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=f4fXP5GsHRQ


The second video, I show you how the truck idles very low when I am coming to a stop. I also show you how the truck is running very low. If you didnt know you would think the truck was cammed, but sadly it is not, you can tell how its just ideling at a very low operating rpm (400-500rpms). Also, there appears to be hints of black gas fumes coming out of the tailpipes, running too rich? In essence, the truck is hesitating a lot, has absolutley no explosiveness like it used to, and idles very low, especially when coming to a stop and stopping. Let me know what you guys think! Also, the truck goes to the dealer tomorrow morning. Do you think they will be able to fix the issues once they see what codes the truck is throwing?

http://youtube.com/watch?v=c8dW1mL-n1o

And here are the pictures. Not sure if they will be any use to you, but I tried my best to aim it towards the headers and all of the surrounding wires etc.

http://s213.photobucket.com/albums/c...am360/Headers/

 

was that 100% full throttle in the videos?

I cant really tell from the video or the pictures, but in the video you pan over the passenger side of the intake manifold and it looks like the bottom vacume connection (for the heater door control) isnt connected, and from one picture it looks like that same connection is tucked up out of the way. Do you know if thats connected? Ill keep thinking on this, im not going to be on untill later tomorrow, but if i figgure it out ill be sure to get back on.

 

Wasn't 100%, but it was enough that it would usually make the truck kick its butt into gear. I didn't want to slam it because it was just running too poorly, but you can really see how bad she is slugging! Very discouraging..

 

also, the tube going from the fender to the air hat is disconnected

oh wait u fixed it

 

I just went out and took the truck out to get some coolant from Walmart. The truck was running like **** still, but it was driveable until I was 5 minutes from Walmart. Then it started doing that thing where it would idle really low when I'd start to come to a stop. SO I went inside and bought some coolant, and some fuel system cleaner just for the hell of it. I put the fuel cleaner in the gas tank. Then I opened the coolant reservoir cap up and started the truck like indy said to do. Then I filled it, it actually was very low. So I topped it off and let it run with the cap open for about 5 minutes. Then on the way home, my god, the truck just went nutty on me again. I could barely get the truck to move. I went 20mph for 8 miles, and it was pushing to get that out of it. The lights were dimming at stop lights and going down to as low as 200 rpms. I had to put it in neutral at times while drivnig to keep the rpms up as well. I barely made it home. So tomorrow I once again will have to have the truck towed. Im having triple a come in the morning to bring it the dealer. I dont want to risk ****ing the truck up trying to get it there. I have to get on the highway to get there and Im pretty confident I could never get it past 45 mph at this point. Ill just let them **** with it for the day. I am goingto ask to have a mechanic come with me to get a test drive as well before I leave it with them. But anyway, yet another discouraging day with the truck. I'll let you guys know what happens tomorrow. But any more suggesstions based off my descriptions, videos, and pictures would really be helpful for me tomorrow. Anythnig I can do to stir a mechanic in the right direction could be a big help. Thanks again guys for all of your help, as always, it is very very appreciated

 

It's to bad this tech really gummed up your ride.This is not a putdown btw. I did this to myself on my first real hotrod. Had someone else install the motor and tranny, which became an expensive nightmare!In truth, I probably wasnt a lot older (back then)than you either!Luckily I had some folks who assisted me personally once I got the car back, although I still had to do a couple majors myself.
Thank the gods there were no PCMs involved, although trying to an oil filter plate off an LA motor in a 74 Roadrunner with headers was not a fun task. It took me three months to dial in the carbs (shoulda ran 390s).
I'd bet my money on faulty O2 wiring, or damaged o2 sensors for a start. When I read the posts about the header studs, I cringed. I wish you the best.
The torx mod is still wrong though![8D]

 

I know man, I'm so annoyed how sketchy the guy did this header job. It's not even like the job was that difficult either, but he's known for doing great work, and I just got the ****end of the fricken stick on this one. Im really pissed too because my parents urged me not to do the headers, but I did it anyway. Now my truck is running like complete ****, and it's pretty embarrassing lol.

Now if it is in fact the 02 sensor, is that something a dealer will be able to fix you think?

 

In the first photo; whats that plug in the upper right hand supposed to attach to ?
Also I could be wrong but I don't like the way your first two sparkplug wires on the drivers side cross one another.

 

I'm thinking there's a bad wire connection from the coil, or you're coil's going out. Check either the connection directly on the coil, or the coil connection on the distributor cap. The plug on the bottom of the coil is kind of close to the #2 exhaust header, maybe the mech pulled it loose on the swap.

A crossed wire will buck horribly right off the start, (i've done it) it doesn't need to warm up to show symptoms. A bad coil or coil connection can dump extra fuel onto the 02 sensors and cause the PCM to super lean out the fuel mix to make the engine starve for fuel.

 

Dodge / Chrysler / Jeep Specific Trouble Codes



Code
Description

[align=center]P1192[/align]
Inlet Air Temp. Circuit Low

[align=center]P1193[/align]
Inlet Air Temp. Circuit High

[align=center]P1195[/align]
1/1 O2 Sensor Slow During Catalyst Monitor

[align=center]P1196[/align]
2/1 O2 Sensor Slow During Catalyst Monitor

[align=center]P1197[/align]
1/2 O2 Sensor Slow During Catalyst Monitor

[align=center]P1198[/align]
Radiator Temperature Sensor Volts Too High

[align=center]P1199[/align]
Radiator Temperature Sensor Volts Too Low

[align=center]P1281[/align]
Engine Is Cold Too Long

[align=center]P1282[/align]
Fuel Pump Relay Control Circuit

[align=center]P1283[/align]
Idle Select Signal Invalid

[align=center]P1284[/align]
Fuel Injection Pump Battery Voltage Out Of Range

[align=center]P1285[/align]
Fuel Injection Pump Controller Always On

[align=center]P1286[/align]
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Supply Voltage Too High

[align=center]P1287[/align]
Fuel Injection Pump Controller Supply Voltage Low

[align=center]P1288[/align]
Intake Manifold Short Runner Solenoid Circuit

[align=center]P1289[/align]
Manifold Tune Valve Solenoid Circuit

[align=center]P1290[/align]
CNG Fuel Pressure Too High

[align=center]P1291[/align]
No Temp Rise Seen From Fuel Heaters

[align=center]P1292[/align]
CNG Pressure Sensor Voltage Too High

[align=center]P1293[/align]
CNG Pressure Sensor Voltage Too Low

[align=center]P1294[/align]
Target Idle Not Reached

[align=center]P1295[/align]
No 5 Volts To TP Sensor

[align=center]P1296[/align]
No 5 Volts To MAP Sensor

[align=center]P1297[/align]
No Change in MAP From Start To Run

[align=center]P1298[/align]
Lean Operation At wide Open Throttle

[align=center]P1299[/align]
Vacuum Leak Found (IAC Fully Seated)

[align=center]P1388[/align]
Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay Control Circuit

[align=center]P1389[/align]
No Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay Output Voltage At PCM

[align=center]P1390[/align]
Timing Belt Skipped One Tooth or More

[align=center]P1391[/align]
Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP

[align=center]P1398[/align]
Mis-Fire Adapter Numerator at Limit

[align=center]P1399[/align]
Wait To Start Lamp Circuit

[align=center]P1403[/align]
No 5 Volts To EGR Sensor

[align=center]P1475[/align]
Aux. 5 Volt Output Too High

[align=center]P1476[/align]
Too Little Secondary Air

[align=center]P1477[/align]
Too Much Secondary Air

[align=center]P1478[/align]
Battery Temp Sensor Volts Out of Limit

[align=center]P1479[/align]
Transmission Fan Relay Circuit

[align=center]P1480[/align]
PCV Solenoid Valve

[align=center]P1482[/align]
Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Shorted Low

[align=center]P1483[/align]
Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Shorted High

[align=center]P1484[/align]
Catalytic Converter Overheat Detected

[align=center]P1485[/align]
Air Injection Solenoid Circuit

[align=center]P1486[/align]
Evap Leak Monitor Pinched Hose

[align=center]P1487[/align]
Hi Speed Rad Fan CTRL Relay Circuit

[align=center]P1488[/align]
Auxiliary 5 Volt Supply Output Too Low

[align=center]P1489[/align]
High Speed Fan CTRL Relay Circuit

[align=center]P1490[/align]
Low Speed Fan CTRL Relay Circuit

[align=center]P1491[/align]
Rad Fan Control Relay Circuit

[align=center]P1492[/align]
Battery Temperature Sensor Voltage Too High

[align=center]P1493[/align]
Battery Temperature Sensor Voltage Too Low

[align=center]P1494[/align]
Leak Detection Pump Switch or Mechanical Fault

[align=center]P1495[/align]
Leak Detection Pump Solenoid Circuit

[align=center]P1496[/align]
5 Volt Supply Output Too Low

[align=center]P1498[/align]
High speed Rad Fan Ground CTRL Rly Circuit

[align=center]P1594[/align]
Charging System Voltage Too High

[align=center]P1595[/align]
Speed Control Solenoid Circuits

[align=center]P1596[/align]
Speed Control Switch Always High

[align=center]P1597[/align]
Speed Control Switch Always Low

[align=center]P1598[/align]
A/C Pressure Sensor Volts Too High

[align=center]P1599[/align]
A/C Pressure Sensor Volts Too Low

[align=center]P1602[/align]
PCM Not Programmed

[align=center]P1680[/align]
Clutch Released Switch Circuit

[align=center]P1681[/align]
No I/P Cluster CCD/J1850 Messages Received

[align=center]P1682[/align]
Charging System Voltage Too Low

[align=center]P1683[/align]
Speed Control Power Relay Or Speed Control 12 Volt Driver Circuit

[align=center]P1684[/align]
Battery Disconnected Within Last 50 Starts

[align=center]P1685[/align]
Skim Invalid Key

[align=center]P1686[/align]
No SKIM Bus Message Received

[align=center]P1687[/align]
No Cluster Bus Message

[align=center]P1688[/align]
Internal Fuel Injection Pump Controller Failure

[align=center]P1689[/align]
No Communication Between ECM & Injection Pump Module

[align=center]P1690[/align]
Fuel injection pump CKP Sensor Does Not Agree With ECM CKP Sensor

[align=center]P1691[/align]
Fuel Injection Pump Controller Calibration Failure

[align=center]P1693[/align]
DTC Detected In ECM Or PCM

[align=center]P1694[/align]
No CCD Messages Received From ECM

[align=center]P1695[/align]
No CCD/J185O Message From BCM

[align=center]P1696[/align]
PCM Failure EEPROM Write Denied

[align=center]P1697[/align]
PCM Failure SRI Mile Not Stored

[align=center]P1698[/align]
No CCD Messages Received From PCM

[align=center]P1719[/align]
Skip Shift Solenoid Circuit

[align=center]P1740[/align]
TCC Or OD Solenoid Performance

[align=center]P1756[/align]
Governor Pressure Not Equal To Target At 15–20 PSI

[align=center]P1757[/align]
Governor Pressure Above 3 PSI When Request Is 0 PSI

[align=center]P1762[/align]
Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Improper Voltage

[align=center]P1763[/align]
Governor Pressure Sensor Voltage Too High

[align=center]P1764[/align]
Governor Pressure Sensor Voltage Too Low

[align=center]P1765[/align]
Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit

[align=center]P1899[/align]
Park/Neutral Position Switch Stuck In Park or In Gear