Madness Started
#41
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Ah no. If you bore it out its not a 360 anymore. Plus why bore it if its not necessary? If anything he will probably hone the cylinders to clean them up. I don't know where you get that's the only way to "do it right" I did a good bit of research on my 514 project when I first started it. A 514 uses the the stock bore so technically no boring needed. It just uses a different crank. Why would someone pay the 200 dollars I think it was to bore it if you don't need too.
Not trying to be a dick but I just don't see the logic in that
Not trying to be a dick but I just don't see the logic in that
#47
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Ah no. If you bore it out its not a 360 anymore. Plus why bore it if its not necessary? If anything he will probably hone the cylinders to clean them up. I don't know where you get that's the only way to "do it right" I did a good bit of research on my 514 project when I first started it. A 514 uses the the stock bore so technically no boring needed. It just uses a different crank. Why would someone pay the 200 dollars I think it was to bore it if you don't need too.
Not trying to be a dick but I just don't see the logic in that
Not trying to be a dick but I just don't see the logic in that
*How do you know it's not necessary? Have you run a dial bore gauge down the cylinders? You have an engine with over 140k miles? And you think a cylinder hone is all you need? Think again. Not trying to be a dick, but you were the one who said you wanted to get into your bottom end and "do it right." Think about it: honing does not put metal back on worn cylinder walls. Plus, you are going to run your worn out standard pistons and new rings. Now how well do you think those new standard sized rings are going to seal in worn out piston ring grooves/lands and inside a worn out bore? Go ahead and do what you think is right, but I'll bet money right now that engine is going to smoke like hell because you didn't tighten up your tolerances, you actually loosened them.
*Dude, I don't know what a 514 project is, but the only way to get an engine's piston to cylinder tolerances back to spec is boring oversize, and getting new oversized pistons/rings. That technology has not changed since I started pulling wrenches.
*Ask yourself: Do you want a "like new" engine now, or do you want to go back into the same situation you had before?
#49
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*Is there some magic in the number 360? I thought the purpose of overhauling an engine was to get more hp and reliability.
*How do you know it's not necessary? Have you run a dial bore gauge down the cylinders? You have an engine with over 140k miles? And you think a cylinder hone is all you need? Think again. Not trying to be a dick, but you were the one who said you wanted to get into your bottom end and "do it right." Think about it: honing does not put metal back on worn cylinder walls. Plus, you are going to run your worn out standard pistons and new rings. Now how well do you think those new standard sized rings are going to seal in worn out piston ring grooves/lands and inside a worn out bore? Go ahead and do what you think is right, but I'll bet money right now that engine is going to smoke like hell because you didn't tighten up your tolerances, you actually loosened them.
*Dude, I don't know what a 514 project is, but the only way to get an engine's piston to cylinder tolerances back to spec is boring oversize, and getting new oversized pistons/rings. That technology has not changed since I started pulling wrenches.
*Ask yourself: Do you want a "like new" engine now, or do you want to go back into the same situation you had before?
*How do you know it's not necessary? Have you run a dial bore gauge down the cylinders? You have an engine with over 140k miles? And you think a cylinder hone is all you need? Think again. Not trying to be a dick, but you were the one who said you wanted to get into your bottom end and "do it right." Think about it: honing does not put metal back on worn cylinder walls. Plus, you are going to run your worn out standard pistons and new rings. Now how well do you think those new standard sized rings are going to seal in worn out piston ring grooves/lands and inside a worn out bore? Go ahead and do what you think is right, but I'll bet money right now that engine is going to smoke like hell because you didn't tighten up your tolerances, you actually loosened them.
*Dude, I don't know what a 514 project is, but the only way to get an engine's piston to cylinder tolerances back to spec is boring oversize, and getting new oversized pistons/rings. That technology has not changed since I started pulling wrenches.
*Ask yourself: Do you want a "like new" engine now, or do you want to go back into the same situation you had before?
First of all I didn't say I wouldn't need. I said if I didn't why do it. I have already bought stuff for a 360 why up my engine and use stuff thats not going to work to its full potential.
I said from the start I'm not out to make a high hp truck.
I know people that have rebuilt engines. Using stock pistons with new rings and haven't had any "smoking" problems.
You wanna tell me the "right" way to do it and say my way is "wrong" who's the one that changed 1 cam bearing. If 1 stock bearing went bad what makes you think the rest of them can't.
The 514 project is the 514 ci engine I'm building for my Mustang. There now you know.
If you wanna send me the money to buy a prebuilt short block I'll gladly buy it.
I'm sure the machine shop will tell me if it needs bored or if a need certain rings or new parts.
Thanks for your input though
#50
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I know people that have rebuilt engines. Using stock pistons with new rings and haven't had any "smoking" problems.
You wanna tell me the "right" way to do it and say my way is "wrong" who's the one that changed 1 cam bearing. If 1 stock bearing went bad what makes you think the rest of them can't.
You wanna tell me the "right" way to do it and say my way is "wrong" who's the one that changed 1 cam bearing. If 1 stock bearing went bad what makes you think the rest of them can't.
Now, you may wonder why I didn't rebuild my entire engine. Well, the main reason was that engine had low mileage and was putting out good compression numbers and I knew that I had a good bottom end. I also knew that to do it "right" it would cost me $3,000 and more lost time. I figured if it didn't work to my satisfaction, I would sell it and move on. As it turned out, my hunch was right and I'm very satisfied with the results. Was there luck involved? Sure. What makes me think the rest of my cam bearings won't go bad? They haven't after 97k miles.
I'm not trying to say your way is "wrong." Only that I've gone down that road before and I would hate to see you sell your truck or pull that engine again because you are not satisfied. Sounds like your confident in your methods so I will hold my tongue and wish you luck with the rebuild.
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