Madness Started
#33
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Jinx, that #4 cam bearing looks just like mine did. I'm still not sure if I caused the damage when I pulled out the cam or it had just deteriorated that way over time. My recommendation is to just replace the damaged #4 bearing. If you try to replace them all, you may not be able to get your new cam installed. I had to really work at polishing the new bearing down with an abrasive pad to get my cam to fit satisfactorily. PM me if you need any tips or photos on replacing that cam bearing.
#34
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Thanks for the tip but beings i gotta do it I'm gonna replace them all. I just can't think that if I don't and another one goes bad that I could have prevented it. Its like a $50 insurance policy in a way. Where did you get that tool that you used? i still need to order the set I'm thinking i might get them through summit. Its a little cheaper then even the places close by. Money is shrinking and nt coming in fast enough to finish this as fast as I wanted too. I still need to order rr's, pushrods, wideband, trans temp guage, a piller pod and the sct. I know I don't ned the wideband and trans guage to run it but would like to have all the drilling and stuff done before i fire it up.
#35
#39
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See the thing is I wanna take the piston with me. I want to see if he can grind them marks out while he's cleaning stuff up. That way I will know if I need new ones. I have talked ti this guy before when I started my 514 project. He's pretty damn cheap and does a great job. I honestly can't see it costing as much as the built short block. If it is and they want it together I'll slap the bitch together. Their only gonna take it apart again
#40
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Well, to do the job right, the machine shop is going to bore your block by at least .030 over and you'll need 30-over pistons anyway. If you feel a noticable ridge in your cylinders, I can guarantee your machinist will have to overbore your block. Anything less is a waste of time and money. Your call.