Trans Check Valve Delete
Banned
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 967
Likes: 0
From: MI USA
So you guys think that this link, which is referred to here dozens of times in reference to band adjustment, is not accurate ?
http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmissio...T_band_adj.htm
http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmissio...T_band_adj.htm
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
A question...
Here's the replacement hose completely assembled:
1 ft of trans tubing will probably be a little too long for the setup so you can use wire cutters to cut the trans tubing to size. Just use the old check valve unit to judge length before you cut. A razor blade won't work because the trans line is reinforced with steel mesh to keep it from expanding. Just stuff the replacement check valve fitting unit in one end of the hose, clamp it down with a hose clamp and hold it up to the old check valve line before you cut. Remember to measure twice and cut once! The new fittings will make the whole unit a little longer than the old one, so don't judge rubber tubing to rubber tubing when you cut. Throw another hose clamp on the hose before inserting the radiator side coupling. Insert radiator side coupling and tighten down the hose clamp over the fitting's nozzle end.
Tighten up the flare end onto the coupler in the truck and push the quick connect side onto the radiator. You can now remove the drip pan. Recheck all of the connections. Here's a pic of it installed:
Engage the emergency brake and start up the truck and put it in Neutral. Let the truck heat up to operating temp and check the trans fluid level on a level road or parking lot. Add more ATF +4 as needed.
It's a good idea to let the truck idle in neutral for about 10 seconds before taking off after the truck has sit for an extended length of time. This will allow the trans fluid pump to refill the Torque Converter so you don't bog and stall as you try to take off.
Enjoy your new found peace of mind.
This setup is also nice if you ever want to add an external cooler or filter to the trans return line. Just remove the hose from the fittings via the hose clamps and place the cooler or filter unit in between the two couplings and pipe the hoses into your current couplings. Just check to make sure that if there is a recommended direction of flow, you pipe it in correctly. The flow for the check valve portion we've removed is from radiator to transmission (the return line). You'll notice the flow direction is marked on the old check valve itself.
1 ft of trans tubing will probably be a little too long for the setup so you can use wire cutters to cut the trans tubing to size. Just use the old check valve unit to judge length before you cut. A razor blade won't work because the trans line is reinforced with steel mesh to keep it from expanding. Just stuff the replacement check valve fitting unit in one end of the hose, clamp it down with a hose clamp and hold it up to the old check valve line before you cut. Remember to measure twice and cut once! The new fittings will make the whole unit a little longer than the old one, so don't judge rubber tubing to rubber tubing when you cut. Throw another hose clamp on the hose before inserting the radiator side coupling. Insert radiator side coupling and tighten down the hose clamp over the fitting's nozzle end.
Tighten up the flare end onto the coupler in the truck and push the quick connect side onto the radiator. You can now remove the drip pan. Recheck all of the connections. Here's a pic of it installed:
Engage the emergency brake and start up the truck and put it in Neutral. Let the truck heat up to operating temp and check the trans fluid level on a level road or parking lot. Add more ATF +4 as needed.
It's a good idea to let the truck idle in neutral for about 10 seconds before taking off after the truck has sit for an extended length of time. This will allow the trans fluid pump to refill the Torque Converter so you don't bog and stall as you try to take off.
Enjoy your new found peace of mind.
This setup is also nice if you ever want to add an external cooler or filter to the trans return line. Just remove the hose from the fittings via the hose clamps and place the cooler or filter unit in between the two couplings and pipe the hoses into your current couplings. Just check to make sure that if there is a recommended direction of flow, you pipe it in correctly. The flow for the check valve portion we've removed is from radiator to transmission (the return line). You'll notice the flow direction is marked on the old check valve itself.
Just checking...I am putting a remote filter where the check valve was...
Thanks, Just want to clarify...
CHECK VALVE side to IN on remote filter and OUT on filter to to RADIATOR..??
Thanks, Cwiseguy
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Transmission Remote Oil Filter Install
I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 4x4 with a 360 motor and 46re Tranny...The Check Ball had already been taken out of the transmission line to the cooler...All I did was cut the hose with the check ball in the middle and added the remote filer in-line...The check ball side goes to the IN of the filter and the OUT of the filter goes to the cooler....
Thanks...Cwiseguy
Thanks...Cwiseguy
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I would think...
I would think that it may benefit all tranny's. I did read somewhere that having the check valve ball in place gives a 20 psi increase in pressure in the lines. I am not sure if this means anything or not, I am not a transmission guy. Just the average joe...
I would however think that installing a remote transmission filter would be a necessity...If just changing the remote filter every 10,000 miles gave you and extra 10,000 miles of life it would be worth the expense. And if you don't have an oil cooler then that is a bonus if added...
I have many years experience with air cooled motorcycles, kawasaki z1's etc.. An oil cooler means a hell of a lot of difference in the cooling...Life or death in a hot climate...So, I would translate that a transmission oil cooler is a necessity...And also, changing the filter and oil is cheap protection in cycles...Heat means deterioration...
It all relates in my opinion, anyway...
Thanks, Cwiseguy
I would however think that installing a remote transmission filter would be a necessity...If just changing the remote filter every 10,000 miles gave you and extra 10,000 miles of life it would be worth the expense. And if you don't have an oil cooler then that is a bonus if added...
I have many years experience with air cooled motorcycles, kawasaki z1's etc.. An oil cooler means a hell of a lot of difference in the cooling...Life or death in a hot climate...So, I would translate that a transmission oil cooler is a necessity...And also, changing the filter and oil is cheap protection in cycles...Heat means deterioration...
It all relates in my opinion, anyway...
Thanks, Cwiseguy
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I'm hardly any kind of Dodge expert but given the notoriety of the 46re for loose friction material, this tranny filter seems like a great hack. If the check valve were downstream from this remote filter, wouldn't that solve both problems- debris clogging the check valve and backpressure issues for the TC?
Thread Starter
|
Legend
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,843
Likes: 13
From: DFW, Texas
it should in theory, but understand that it's using a motor oil filter, not a tranny oil filter.
Motor oil filters have a bypass valve that allows unfiltered oil to pass when the pressure in the filter is too high, so the engine doesn't starve for lubrication. When you're driving in OD, the pressure through the tranny lines can top 145psi, so a lot of unfiltered tranny oil is going thru the bypass anyway.
Also, the check valve is a restrictive point in the oil lines any way, which slows the flow of the cooled tranny oil back to the tranny.
I've left my truck sit for 2 weeks and never noticed a drain back issue. I will admit though, I'm running a Sonnax valve that charges the converter even in park.
Motor oil filters have a bypass valve that allows unfiltered oil to pass when the pressure in the filter is too high, so the engine doesn't starve for lubrication. When you're driving in OD, the pressure through the tranny lines can top 145psi, so a lot of unfiltered tranny oil is going thru the bypass anyway.
Also, the check valve is a restrictive point in the oil lines any way, which slows the flow of the cooled tranny oil back to the tranny.
I've left my truck sit for 2 weeks and never noticed a drain back issue. I will admit though, I'm running a Sonnax valve that charges the converter even in park.
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
i have a question for everyone without a check valve.
after my rebuild (with an external cooler and the stock cooler deleted/check valve removed) my truck is a slug on a cold start for the first take off. the other day i figured i'd try putting the truck in neutral before i took off and i quickly realized that i need to do that every time to make it take off like normal. i only have to have it in neutral for about 10 seconds to avoid the sluggish takeoff but it doesn't seem right.
does anyone else have this issue?
I think i'm going to go give my rebuilder some warranty work. that guy left the transfer case vac lines and the vent hose unplugged. and he used a rubber pan seal after i specifically told him that i wanted the plastic/rubber mopar seal and now it leaks at the pan. the leak may be due to him beating a dent out of the bottom of the pan with a ball peen hammer.
also, for some reason when i checked my transfer case fluid i had about a quart and a half of fluid shoot all over me, i wasn't draining it so i didn't expect any fluid to come out. i'm thinking that he screwed up the seal between the transfer case and the transmission during the rebuild, what do ya'll think about that?
the tranny is a little low after the transfer case mishap but its shifting great so i can't complain too much.
could a slightly low fluid level cause the sluggish take off on a cold start even though none of the shifts are affected?
after my rebuild (with an external cooler and the stock cooler deleted/check valve removed) my truck is a slug on a cold start for the first take off. the other day i figured i'd try putting the truck in neutral before i took off and i quickly realized that i need to do that every time to make it take off like normal. i only have to have it in neutral for about 10 seconds to avoid the sluggish takeoff but it doesn't seem right.
does anyone else have this issue?
I think i'm going to go give my rebuilder some warranty work. that guy left the transfer case vac lines and the vent hose unplugged. and he used a rubber pan seal after i specifically told him that i wanted the plastic/rubber mopar seal and now it leaks at the pan. the leak may be due to him beating a dent out of the bottom of the pan with a ball peen hammer.
also, for some reason when i checked my transfer case fluid i had about a quart and a half of fluid shoot all over me, i wasn't draining it so i didn't expect any fluid to come out. i'm thinking that he screwed up the seal between the transfer case and the transmission during the rebuild, what do ya'll think about that?
the tranny is a little low after the transfer case mishap but its shifting great so i can't complain too much.
could a slightly low fluid level cause the sluggish take off on a cold start even though none of the shifts are affected?