An earlier log stated that you may have to warm up the truck before driving away to allow pressure to build. I removed my checkvalve 3yrs. ago and have never had to warm up, and have always been able to drive off as soon as I start up. Mine is a 2000 Ram.

 

Just out of idle curiosity, do your reverse lights work when the engine is warm?

 

oddest question ever but i will check as I've never noticed either way i just assumed they always worked.

 

Not sure if u got the message in your other check valve thread but here's a copy paste: Great write up purple (and squirrels). I was able to delete my check valve by just getting those two parts from lowes and the hose clamp. However, when I went to lowes yesterday, they didn't have the A-204 part. They looked and called other lowes in the area and they didn't have the part either. I think they are discontinuing that part or they have assigned a different number the guy gave me part: LFA-294 in its place and seems to work fine. The LF stands for lead free I think. I hope I'm not creating bad chemistry with the lead free parts, both were LFA-. Thanks again.

 

You can actually eliminate one fitting on the flare side as well, just for one less leak possibility. Go to a local hardware store and get a 3/8 hose barb to 3/8 female pipe thread fitting and then you can attach the male 3/8 flare x 3/8 male pipe right to the barb. Just an FYI, eliminates one more point where it may possibly leak in the future.

 

To Purple, I actually work in the hardware business, the LF parts are identical, they are taking place for the other parts and those are getting discontinued. So now all brass fittings you purchase are 100% brass instead of having lead in them to add to it. This way they can 1. jack the price way up beings brass is an expensive metal, and 2. for those go greeners its safer when using in water lines and what not. Pointless info but something not everyone may know so

 

Great article, easy to follow thanks you made it super easy.

 

this ain't rocket science, simply remove the check valve, drill it out, blow it clean and re install. NO NEW PARTS NEEDED ! Why make it so difficult? This has worked for me without a hitch, also worked for others that I have explained the process too. If there is an issue with this process I would like to know about it.

 

OK, I just discovered the 16 pages after the first page. Good information. I was too late to take advantage of the Lowes hack,,, but I did find what looks like a pre-made part to do the job at Auto-zone on line of all places.

I'll paste a link below. I know it's pricey,, but the OP is several years old, and the cost of some of those fittings is a tad higher today. Where do you guys find fittings anyway? NAPA sucks on line,, cause you can't search the fittings by size.

Did anyone ever find out the thread size and type on the radiator connection. I want to install a trans cooler, and the steel line that runs from the radiator to the tranny is bent in such a way that I'll have to turn my hose for the cooler feed 180 degrees. I don't much like the thought of this, and would hope to find a 90 degree fitting so I can keep from getting a kink or restriction in the hose.

Anyway,, ,thanks for all the info,,,

I just drug my Gen 2 out of the woods where it has "hibernated" for 5 years, and I have much to do to get it back reliable.

http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/t...0_4799_108636/

 

As a side note, I went to a hydralic line shop and had my line built so that no clamps had to be used. The line looks factory.
I also used a hose with a burst pressure that far exceeds what it will ever see.