Alright, this will be the last thread I start on this subject. Figured I'd just make a thread about the problem itself, rather than all the solutions I'm trying, sorry about that. I also apologize for the length of this initial post, but I've tried so many things that did not solve the issue...

The problem: when detuned (factory programming), the truck runs OK. When tuned with the Superchips Flashpaq 3815 at any tune (Economy 87, towing, or performance 91), for the first five minutes after every start, whether the truck is hot or cold, there is a severe hesitation/stumble. At idle, you can only really hear it at about 1400 RPMs, it backfires slightly. During the hesitation stumble when in DRIVE and at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, there is no power. It seems to almost catch itself, then hesitate, almost, hesitate, and so on. If I floor it, it will hesitate, rev up to about 2500-3000 RPMs, and then take off for half a second, then lose power again. If I barely give it any gas at all, it will slowly go like normal, with no hesitation. Any more than one tenth throttle or so on the pedal though, and bam, hesitation, stumble.

This occurred just after I had my intake manifold replaced with a "kegger modded" intake manifold from a 1999 Dakota R/T. While it was being done, I also had the Hughes plate and a Felpro gasket installed in place of factory steel plate and broken cheapy gasket. The battery cables were not attached during the install (therefore, the computer should have been reset). It ran fine for two or three days, but then I updated the database on the Superchips programmer. I went out, adjusted my tire size, reset the computer, and BAM, this problem shows up.

If I let it idle for just shy of five minutes, or deal with the stumble for five minutes, it comes out of it (corrects itself). However, anytime I WOT it after 45-50 MPH, there is severe ping. I'm talking big time. Its worse than when I had my broken plenum gasket and was running the 91 performance tune.

I've tried tuning and leaving the stock tire size. Doesn't make a difference.

There are no trouble codes or CEL, not even the blinking one for misfire(s). And yes, the light is not burned out, it works.

Tests/checks I've done:
-checked fuel pressure at idle, did it first thing, its been a while, but I remember that it was either 46 psi or 48 psi
-checked fuel pressure at WOT, it drops 2 psi or less for a fraction of a hair of a second when I manipulate the butterflies open, but instantly recovers back to normal
-tested battery (Advance Auto), tests OK
-tested alternator (Advance Auto), tests OK
-tested injectors, all are now between 12.0 ohms and 12.6 ohms when cold

Things I've replaced so far that have not fixed the issue:
-new TPS
-new IAC motor/valve
-new ETC sensor (what a pain to get at, thanks dakotas_ram and Squirrels for your help finding it)
-replaced MSD Blaster 2 coil with stock coil
-replaced injector that was "off" from the rest (all tested 12.0 to 12.6 ohms except one, it tested 13.2 ohms)
-two cans of Seafoam in the gas tank
-two bottles of STP fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank (not at the same time as the Seafoam, a couple fill-ups after)
-replaced Autolite 3923 plugs with stock heat range NGK V-power plugs
-replaced NGK V-power plugs with brand new Autolite 3923 plugs
-tried plug gaps of .04 and .035 with Autolites and NGKs
-made sure wires are routed as per the TSB, even though it does not apply to my model year

The cap and rotor have less than 10,000 miles on them. Closer to 5,000 I believe.

I am not losing any coolant anywhere. The reserve tank does not drop at all.

None of the plugs show anything abnormal except for the whitish color of running lean, which I figured out from the pinging.

What should I try next? My current thoughts are...

-new MAP sensor (expensive little b@stard... almost $100 for a new one)
-new CPS
-new pickup coil (thats the sensor that goes under the distributor cap, right?)
-Replace plug wires, cap, and rotor (even though they are low mileage and I would think I'd feel the problem with these detuned as well)
-Replace plugs with Champion plugs (would they make that much difference from NGKs?)
-Cylinder compression test (although I would think a problem with this problem would present itself detuned as well)
-Vacuum gauge test the manifold (although I would think a problem with this would present itself detuned as well)
-new rear speed sensor (the speed sensor wouldn't cause an issue, would it?)
-try different gas station (never had a problem with BP gas before, thats my main one now)

When I replaced the IAC, I had the Volant air cleaner assembly off, and looked down into the manifold. The Hughes plenum plate is clean as a whistle.

So again, I would like to pick your guys' brains. Thanks for reading the long post.

EDIT: One final thought... could the modified manifold be allowing to much air through for the Superchips programming? It is designed for a pretty much stock vehicle, or so they say.

 

Ok, I will chime in here just for a second. To my recollection, didn't all of this start when you upgraded the Super Chips' programing? If that was the case, would there be a way to go back to the old update?

Before you look into replacing that map sensor, hook up a diagnostic tool that will read what the map sensor is putting out. (I dont know if you have one or not. I just keep one in the cab with me and it comes in extremely handy.) I don't recall exactly what a good functioning sensor should be putting out, but that shouldn't be that hard to find.

If you dont have a way of seeing what it is doing, maybe an auto shop or parts store would do a ride along with you to kinda check to see.

I do remember that the inches of mercury read out on the map on these trucks is bass aackwards from what Chevy of Ford usually read.

Could it also be possible that your new TPS is faulty out of the box?

And the old stand by.... What about the CAT?

Hope some of that gives you an idea....

 

Yes, it did. But they tell me I am the only 5.9L V8 owner to report this issue, and they refuse to revert to a previous program. Their engineers basically told me their files were good, and their customer service said "the engineers won't let you revert".

They are pretty expensive, aren't they? What models do you recommend? Maybe I should sell the Flashpaq and use that money to get one. *sigh*

I will do it next time I have a day off, can't believe I didn't think of that. Thanks!

I've heard of new TPSs being bad, and sometimes you have to go get two or three new ones before you find a good unit. However, I thought this was with bad AutoZone cheapo brands or the like. This unit is not that expensive, but its a BWD (Borg-Warner), which I've never had issues with before.

Has anyone had issues with BWD stuff before?

The cat is almost as new as the wires/rotor/cap. If it was bad, wouldn't it cause this all the time, rather than go away after five minutes?

Also, what should the injectors test at when hot? When they are cold, I tested them, and they were all within spec except the one, which I replaced. I tested them hot (after twenty minute drive, mixed city/interstate) the other day, and they were all very high (13-14+ ohms), but dropped rapidly back to within spec as they cooled (tested them later again). Is that normal?

 

The tool I use is an OTC 4000. In it's day it was a high dollar set up, but I caught it really cheap on ebay. I think I paid like $200 for it. It was the whole kit will read all domestic cars and trucks up to 1997. Found here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OTC-M...motiveQ5fTools

I know that doesn't help you too much seeing that yours is a 2001.

This might cover what you need: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPX-O...motiveQ5fTools
This one is more what you need: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GENIS...motiveQ5fTools
( I think you would have to buy an update chip for it though)
This might sound crazy, but if you really want to look into buying one, you might call up either your local phone company, or utilities company. They all usually have an auto shop to work on their vehicles. Every few years or so, they buy new trucks, and consequently they have to upgrade their diagnostic tools as well.
If your slick, you might talk the shop manager into selling their old setup to ya for cheap. (This is how I got the newer OTC to read the 04 Ford and the 08 Avie)

As far as the cat, I would think that your right about it causing issues all the time.

And yea, I about chit my pants when I priced a MAP sensor for my truck.... Thought that was a cause of my poor gas mileage at one time, but figured that out...

And also, if Super Chips' support is that bad I would have told them to stick it in their ***. I dont know how they do updates on their programmers, but if its like everything else, don't you have to download the file and then transfer it to the handheld?
would it be possible that you have the old file hanging around on your comp?

 

Kind of reminds me of aim4squirrels problem a while back:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...need-help.html

I don't remember what his final fix was, but something you might want to read over. (Or, skim over. 26 pages)

 

I think that new heads fixed his problems. Not sure on that, maybe he will chime in on this. Probably have to wait until in the morning because I dont think that boy gets on this late at night.

And damn, I remember that thread.... 251 posts... damn its a little easier to bump the post number up to 40 for threads that long.

 

Ok, after looking:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ml#post1525204
and
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ml#post1540696

He fixed the problem before getting new heads.
He did need to replace his intake manifold - it was legitimately bad (https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...d-help-10.html) he did this before the links above, but it didn't solve his problem.

 

Only problem with Squirrels solution for me was that when they replaced the manifold, they told me everything else looked good. I've had enough stuff done at Meineke that I trust them, and I'm pretty sure they would have noticed some cracks.

They've had plenty of opportunities to rob me, so to speak, and they didn't. If they had seen the crack, they would have jumped at the opportunity to offer to fix it for me (and charge me for it). They are good, and I trust them, but they like money like any other shop.

 

Keep the ideas coming guys. Thanks, by the way... I can use all the help I can get at this point.

 

Another note...

If I recall correctly, Squirrels problem was temperature related. Mine seems to be independent of temperature, does it hot or cold. Every four-five minutes, she corrects herself except at WOT above 45-50 mph, where pinging occurs.