ok, so today i changed the tranny fluid and filter in my truck...took longer than expected and a lot of pain and agony. i mean, damn, if i was an engineer, i would've come up with a tranny pan that had a f*cking plug in it. lol. anyway, so now my truck is sitting in the driveway with a drip pan under it leaking tranny fluid from the pan...the reason its leaking tranny fluid is because the seal i got, even with permatex, at one corner will push out...and not stay in. i honestly am beat right now, i dont want to take the pan back off...but i guess if i have to i must. i tried sealing around the area with more permatex, but its leaking so much, i cant get it to stick...any suggestions? i'm probably just gonna go and do it all over again. yayyyyy....

 

A. you never use gasket sealer on a pan gasket. If the pan bolts are torqued in the proper sequence and specification, the fluid itself will cause the gasket to expand and further seal it.

B. If you're pushing the gasket out, or permatex out you are tightening it too tight. See A.

C. Peramtex will not not stop a drip. You must buy a new gasket, drop the pan again, scrape off all the sealer and gasket material and do it over. If you get a gasket with reduced bolt holes to start everything great. If not, a couple three drops of super glue and the gasket held down till it dries will keep it in place.

D. Proper torque for the Tranny pan bolts is 150 INCH pounds. Thats just a few hairs over finger tight.

EDIT...I've been in the parts business over 20 years. You're not the first person to do this, and you won't be the last.

 

That sucks man. One of the guys on our SOVA sight got a tranny fluid bath last week. It would be better and easier if the tranny did have a drain plug.

 

What you should do is just a small hole in the pan and let it all drain out, then place a drain plug where you made the hole once you get the pan off.

Or drill a big hole in the pan and replace it with a deep pan that has a drain plug already in it

Makes things much less messy, cause the fluid level sits well above the pan.

 

more than ikely the lip of your pan is bent, take it off and make sure it's true.

 

I forgot that one, thanks! Make sure you haven't distorted the bolt holes either.

 

i dont see the hurt in it. how could that possibly hurt anything? plus its a rubber gasket, i dont see a rubber gasket expanded and further sealing anything.

and just for your information, i did torque them correctly. i'm not some hillbilly mechanic that just does everything on a whim. i'm a helicopter mechanic by trade, and i know that i did the right torque in the right sequence. according to you its 150 in/lbs...by the haynes manual, its 13 ft/lbs. thats 6 in/lbs more than what you specified. that won't make a difference in the gasket sealing. and if you think 150 in/lbs is a hair over finger tight...you're nuts. i'd like to try and see you finger tight something to even 100 in/lbs.


i didnt really check to make sure that it wasnt, but i'm pretty sure its not bent. i'll check it tomorrow when i get back underneath it. for now, i'm beat.




i honestly think the rubber gasket seems like its too long. i dont even have to tighten to torque, and it comes out at that one corner. i think i'm gonna go try and find a cork gasket so it will expand. idk, any other helpful suggestions?

 

The Federated brand comes with a cork gasket. Personally, I didn't like the way it looked compared to the OEM one, but looks can be deceiving.

 

idk where i could find just a cork gasket around here...might have to run to carquest further down the road. advance has only the rubber kind.

 

nice share!...thanks!...