Cv didn't work.

 

You changed both of them and they're on the right way?
If it isn't that then it might have something do do with one of the vacuum canisters or lines under that dash that go to the blend door.
You can see a cluster of vacuum lines next to the gas pedal and you can also see the canister that controls the blend door.

You can see the door in the center of this picture that switches between the defrost and face settings.

 

Changed both and did the blow test to ensure I put them in correctly. I even installed a lil canister w/cv that I saw in another thread. When I pulled the cv off the T that goes through the fire wall I heard air hissing so im assuming my canister is holding vacuum. Im sure there is a problem with the blend door. The previous owner installed a valve in one of the heater hoses on the drivers side of the engine. Not able to switch from hot to cold from the dash. Im not sure if they did this cos of the heater core or the blend door. I guess I should open the valve for heat to see what happens.

 

What's the door behind the vacuum canister for? Mine doesn't move when I change temperature or a/c,floor, mix, or defrost.

 

Sounds like you have an issue with one or both of those doors, the one that controls hot and cold is on the right side of the picture.
Read through this thread https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-door-fix.html
It sounds like you are holding vacuum because of the hissing so that's a good sign.
I'm no expert on the subject but as far as I know, the door in the center of the dash is what controls whether the vents are on face or defrost by way of the vacuum motor on the driver side of it.

More pictures
Vacuum cluster connected with the yellow line to the bottom of the canister that opens/closes the door for face/defrost.


The same thing without the dash in the way


Does this one control the feet setting? I don't know. I just watched that heater treater video and that leads me to believe that the hot/cold air is controlled by a flap inside the box.

 

The vac lines are for vent controls only(where the heat/ac comes out. The blend door cannot be seen as it's inside. On a 99 there should a small electric motor underneath on the passenger side next to the tranny tunnel. If not, it has a cable going from control to the top of the heat/ac box just to the left of the heater core tubes. You can actually see the nipple sticking out in one of Sheriff's pics. If no cable, the motor is directly below that nipple on the bottom side.

 

I had the edit box open while you posted. So the last part of what I was yammering on about above the last picture is true.
I'm learning. Taking lots of pictures while working on something helps with the learning process.

 

The one on the right side is for fresh air. Like when AC is on regular setting it draws air from outside, when set on MAX ac it will close off the outside air and the box will use the cooler air from inside the cabin.

 

thanks for the help guys but im about to give up. heres wht i know so far. the actuator behind the glove box operates the fresh air/recirculate door and mine is bad. the green vacuum line has vacuum on it so i plugged it up to a actuator from our maintenance shop at work for a ford just to see what happens and the new actuator worked. the other 2 under the dash above the transmission well are working also. the horizontal one with the red and brown vaccum lines have vacuum on different settings and the one just above it with the yellow line has vacuum on different settinge as well but its stronger on some settings than others. i dont recall which settings though. guess i shoulda wrote it down. the motor that switches between hot/cold is MIA. i guess the previous owner took it off cos of the faulty connector that i found out about and it was stuck on heat. i was able to move the **** to allow cold air in. the heater core was also leaking. the previous owner had installed a shut off valve in the heater hose on the drivers side of the engine. when i opened the valve it blew hot air. i used some bars stop leak for the core earlier today and it stopped leaking,so i left the valve open and manualy moved the **** where the missing motor was supposed to go and my cold air returned. i was in the process of pulling the dash to replace the heater core but due to the condition of whats left of my dash and the fact that i have no was to recover the refrigerant is why i opted for the stop leak. my dash is toast. the top is completely gone and im able to see all the ducts for the vents. the black panel on the front that goes around the instrument cluster and vents is loose cos the part of the ash assembly that your able to screw everything else too is busted up as well. guess i need to replace the ENTIRE dash assembly. WOW not cheap there. too much work to do in a weekend.

 

You might want to try playing with some fiberglass resin to patch up whats left of the dash, it's pretty strong when it dries and If you put the fibers in it then it's even stronger. You might be able to patch it up enough to hold the bezel (black panel around the instrument cluster). You can get a new bezel and a dash cover to make it look presentable.
Sounds like you need a new motor to operate that door and the heater treater.
You don't need to drain the refrigerant to change the heater core. You just need to take the bolts loose that hold the evaporator case and pull it back until that black tank thing hits the firewall, that will give you enough room to get the new core in there.