Royal Purple
I dont understand why royal purple is so special its regular synthetic with purple die. anyway mobil one has a blend that's called a "cleaner" it comes in high mileage and regular i guess it says to change it every 4500 and to use the cleaner twice before going to full synthetic (from dino juice) not sure how
I guess you just have to try it to find out why people like royal purple so much. It's good stuff. Maybe it was the placebo effect, but when I used it (a little over a year, continuously) I honestly felt a difference. But to each his own.
I use Royal Purple for this reason, it protects my 9000 rpm, 750HP/875Lbs.Ft of torque,$45k 468 CI BB Chevy dirt circle track engine. over 750 laps on it since a rebuild over the winter. Not one failure of anykind.
I now use it in my truck 3500 cummins diesel. I have always used it in my boat. Like twisted metal said except my boat engine runs 5700 rpm and costs 18k if I blow the supercharger too when the motor blows. Mobil 1 foams. start your engine and pull the stick the stick will be foamy.
Now that's thinking with your dipstick
Now that's thinking with your dipstick
this article is based on motorcycle filters but I wouldn't think there is a big difference in the design and components of a companies oil filters
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html
If you have an oil pressure issue there's 2 things to try.
Put in a new oil pump. Wear will cause low oil pressure, but usually you first notice it as a bottoming out of pressure at idle. A bad oil sending unit is usually zero oil pressure no matter what.
Run a heavier oil like Rotella-T 15w40. Crankshaft bearing or journal wear will cause excessive loss of oil pressure, as more oil passes thru the space between the bearing and journal, and the pressure can't stay up. You're not losing oil, it just passes thru the system faster and it doesn't stay where it should. A thicker oil will stay in between the journals and bearings longer and keep the pressure up.
The downside is that it takes longer to get to the parts at initial start up. It's usually not a problem if you drive the vehicle every day, but if it sits for long periods of time, the oil will drain out of the rod and crank bearings and you're hard starting the engine.
What about O'Reilly's MicroGuard filters?
I used to use those when I lived in a town with an O'Reilly's.
Now I use NAPA. I believe I have the NASCAR branded filter right now...
This thread kinda got me thinking about running synthetic oil starting on my next oil change. I haven't really thought about it because I loose about a quart every change. I usually just buy the 5 quart bottle of the store brand oil (10w30). Except I'm going to 5w-30 on my next change for winter (estimated in November at my current mileage rate). I'll check the prices of Royal Purple and other synthetics at that time.
What about Royal Purple for differential oil? Anyone have data/opinions on that?
I used to use those when I lived in a town with an O'Reilly's.
Now I use NAPA. I believe I have the NASCAR branded filter right now...
This thread kinda got me thinking about running synthetic oil starting on my next oil change. I haven't really thought about it because I loose about a quart every change. I usually just buy the 5 quart bottle of the store brand oil (10w30). Except I'm going to 5w-30 on my next change for winter (estimated in November at my current mileage rate). I'll check the prices of Royal Purple and other synthetics at that time.
What about Royal Purple for differential oil? Anyone have data/opinions on that?



