If I recall correctly, I took the upper out first, you can use the hole for that to get a straight hookup for the lower - Good method to use installing them too, put lowers in first.

 

this is the way i did it too

 

I just did upper and lower driver's side ball joints on my 95 1/2ton 4x4 yesterday. It makes for very light work if you take a 1/2 inch ratchet and slide a 4ft piece of tubing over it when using the ball joint press. I had a hard time removing the lower at the first attempt, but that was because I tried to press it out through the top, not the bottom, stupid me :P

 

I tried the press with the screw through the upper ball joint hole but the live center was pushing at an angle to the top of the ball joint.
I think the dana 60 may have a different setup from the 1500s
1st pic
I tried many combos with the press but it allways seemed to be pushing at either a bad angle or the press adapter kept popping out.
2nd pic
Once zman made me think about the angle i put the 2 adapters together (one is convex and one concave) which gave full contact on the cup and brought the puller in line to press the ball joint straight out.
Problem is in order to press with this configuration I had to flip the press around.
Which meant I had to jack the truck up a couple of more inches.
3rd pic
Now the press being with the short yoke side pushing down on the ball joint did 2 things
1 it didn't give me full stroke as the c frame would hit the yoke, this was fixed by putting a shaft collar between the clamp and the top of the ball joint.
4th pic
now the best part of this config was I had an opening direct to the top of the ball joint to hit with an air hammer
5th pic
Now with a combination of
tighten 1/4 turn (I used a 24" flex head ratchet for this)
air hammer 5 seconds
penetrant
repeat
the joint came out in about 5 minutes.

 

I did that too, busted a ratchet, wrench and warped a breaker bar before I figured out, the top one drops in, the bottom installs going up.

 

Both axles use the angled cups like I stated earlier(so that kit is not right),but, the main problem I see with those pics, is, that there is a cup used for both sides of the BJ. Not just using the screw to push the joint out.The correct setup pushes the outer edge of the BJ, not just in the center.

 

Veeten, once you find the right combo of cups, they press in & out like butter.
I didn't use angled cups for mine, never even heard of them until now.

For the top, you want to find a ring that will just fit the entire circumference of the ball joint, and place a dimpled plate on top of that, so the tip of the screw jack doesn't wander.
For the receiver cup, you just need one slightly larger than the ball joint.

One of these 2 you are not doing right, else you wouldn't be having problems.
It can be a challenge finding the right combo, they can be staring you in the face and they are hard to see.
Once you find the right combo, set em aside so they don't get mixed up with the rest.

Its possible that that kit doesn't have the right combo, that will allow proper placement & clearance of the ball joint knuckle - With an amount of spacers that the screw jack, opened up to the max, will handle.
Possible, but doubtful.
If thats the case, you could just sheer off the knuckle ,, But that does no good for installation.

 

If you look at his second pic, you can plainly see that the bottom part of the yoke is on an angle. Thinner towards the wheel and thicker towards the center of the truck.

 

Looks like the placement of the cup is certainly angled, probably due to improper channeling of pressure, I would think.

 

This kit did not come with a cup that has a smaller diameter than the ball joint.
I realize it's the wrong kit but no one around my area seems to know what kit is needed. Lucky I guess
It doesn't help matters that a dealer gave me the wrong ball joints. again lucky I guess.
It's the press kit and 4x4 adapters in one kit It was not in stock it was fed-exed to the store
the one I got at o-reilys was bent and I had to return it, it had the same 4x4 adapter cups but in a seperate case.
NAPA was no help said there was nothing in the state, never seen a 1 11/16" socket or 43mm socket for the hub nut.
I did the best I could with what I had.....

The good news it's out.....
The bind it was in was due to the a-hole that pounded the old one out and peened the ends of the yoke over and then pressed the new one in I cleaned the burrs on the top edge, but just need the ball joints....

On a side note The first bolt on the CAD loosened fine the second broke. 3rd and 4th are soaking I heated them just a bit and soaked them again.....
Forgive me all I'm not in a great mood, but the hardest part is behind me I hope..