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Electric fan in a 2nd generation Ram

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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 10:03 AM
  #31  
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From: Jax Fl.
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I too have the perma cool set up. I honestly believe it is the best looking and most functional. You have two fans that turn on automatically with the compressor and when a temperature sensor reaches your desired setting. You also have a very clean factory look for the mounting of the resevoirs. There is no "strain" on the alternator that the engine will feel. It turns at whatever rpm you are at, nothing mechanical that actuates when sensing a load. You will however see a draw when the fans cycle but only if you are running everything. Then again I may not have a high output alternator but with everything power in the truck I should. I mightwant to check that.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 11:09 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dodgeramit_10
i just installed my electric fan but the only fuses i could find were hot all the time i hav it fused to a hot spot now so i have to unplug it if i have the truck off were did you guys hook the fuse up to and were does the green wire go i couldnt seem to fine a spot in the A/C i dont need it know so im not to worried but i would like to have it a finished can you help me out?
Tie into a relay (hot side of the coil, not the switched side) in your relay/fuse block next to the battery. The Blower relay is a good one for power supply on a temp switch and then you can tie into the A/C compressor relay (in the same area) for fan control when the compressor kicks on.

Use a volt meter to find the switched side of the relay coil your tying into. Pull the relay, leave the key off, check for 12v. Turn the key on (RUN) check for 12v. When you find one that was NOT 12v turn the key off and double check that 12v is now 0v. Use a use a 18ga butt splice (crimp style) to splice into the switched wire. This way you don't have to cut any wires.

Do the same thing for the compressor. Remember your not powering the fan from here, only the relay that powers the fan.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 11:20 AM
  #33  
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iv got it hooked up to the fog lamp fuse right now seeing as i have no fog lights so the blower and A/C are both in that fuse box then and it wont run when the truck is off because right now it turns on when the truck is off and its pissing me off so seeing as im running short trips now and my truck sits for a while i just have it unplugged till i figure out were to exactly hook it up to
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 12:38 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by dodgeramit_10
iv got it hooked up to the fog lamp fuse right now seeing as i have no fog lights so the blower and A/C are both in that fuse box then and it wont run when the truck is off because right now it turns on when the truck is off and its pissing me off so seeing as im running short trips now and my truck sits for a while i just have it unplugged till i figure out were to exactly hook it up to
Man, I'd get that period button on the keyboard looked at ASAP.

Relay 101

pin 30 is normally hot. It's not often you have a relay control a relay.

Don't quote me, but if I remember correctly the distribution panel is wired for fog lamps even if you don't have the lamps or the wire harness to the lamps. IDK. So, if you've tied your fan relay coil into pin 30 of the fog lamp outlet your going to have 12v until your battery is removed or dies. (it's been a while since I put a meter in there)

For the A/C control side I'd tie into either 86 or 87. 86 will complete the circuit in your fan relay when the circuit for the A/C comp is completed or if you tie into 87 your relay will be powered when the a/c relay switches. I don't know what effect drawing voltage from the clutch circuit will have, I'd err on the side of caution and grab power from the A/C relay coil (85).

Your best bet is to have TWO circuits for your fan. One for temp control and one for A/C clutch control. You can get an adjustable temp switch from AZ for under $20 it's basically a relay with a POT in it. When the temp hits the target zone the coil is grounded thus completing the circuit for your relay to energize the coil to switch 12v from 87a (norm open) to 87 and power your fan. When the temp cools enough (it's about 10-15 deg) the temp relay opens, breaking ground, interrupting the circuit and turning off the fan. See easy peasy. lol. You can have two relays controlling the same fan and the same speed, just don't connect it in series or you'll need one relay to control the other. Not good.
 

Last edited by Flue; Feb 15, 2010 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 01:30 PM
  #35  
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...... i think i got it fixed lol ....... ok i will be in touch if i get it to work or not. thanks a bunch
 
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 03:31 AM
  #36  
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Good lord those perma-cool fans are expensive. Y'all said they were pricey but you didn't say they were 575$.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-19520/
 
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 03:51 AM
  #37  
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good lord..i was thinking about doing this mod..but ya know how much other junk i can do/put on the truck with 600 dollars
 
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 04:33 AM
  #38  
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that's about the same price as a hughes airgap.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 07:23 AM
  #39  
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That's why most of us Cheap a$$ ba$tards go for the Mark VIII build. Under $100 for everything. If you don't go with the switch controller you'll need to add a 3rd relay to switch the hi/lo side. running both will crap out the fan motor.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 09:17 AM
  #40  
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I got everything switched over. Do the fans run all the time till the motor cools unless you buy the switch. Do i have something wrong still? I like the idea of the switch my my lady drives my truck once in a while and im not to sure about that with her driving it.
 
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