Convince me it is the plenum.....Please...
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
If I didn't already have my Hughes, I'd buy a Purpl plate.
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Professional
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 128
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From: Southeast Missouri
Ok. i'm not trying
to seem like the guy who asks for help and then argues the answer. Not at all. I hate that and people who do that. I'm just trying to save money. Is this not the gasket I need.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50022+2022009
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50022+2022009
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
to seem like the guy who asks for help and then argues the answer. Not at all. I hate that and people who do that. I'm just trying to save money. Is this not the gasket I need.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50022+2022009
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50022+2022009
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Professional
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 128
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From: Southeast Missouri
FOund the diy on the plenum,
I don't think I want to take everything off so I can stand in the bay. I can stand on my step ladder and work just fine or sit over on the battery side. So I have *edited* his diy and I think I have all the steps without taking that off. correct me if I'm wrong.
*****
Remove the fuel pump relay and start the motor and wait until it dies. This will relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel rail.
Disconnect battery
Remove the air cleaner or CAI from the engine compartment.
Remove the distributor cap and all of the sparkplug wires.
Drain coolant into a bucket using a hose on the end of the drain plug so you don’t make a mess.
Remove the upper radiator hose. Now is a good time to cut off the “Front†tab on the thermostat housing so your able to remove it without having to tear apart the front of the motor.
Remove the main heater hose to the left of the t-stat housing.
Remove the bypass hose that goes from the intake manifold to the waterpump. I usually just cut it off and get a new one since its such a PITA to get to.
Unbolt the ground that is in the fuel injector wiring harness on the drivers side of the engine from the power steering pump bracket.
Disconnect the IAT (intake air temperature) and CT (coolant temperature) sensors from the wiring harness on the passenger side of the intake manifold.
Disconnect all of the fuel injector connections on both sides.
Carefully move both wiring harnesses out of the way and secure them so they are not dropping back into your work area.
Disconnect the IAC (intake air control) valve connection from the back of the throttle body, the TPS (throttle position sensor) from the drivers side of the throttle body and the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) from the front of the throttle body.
Remove the cables from the throttle body (throttle, TV for the transmission if an Automatic, and cruise if equipped).
Remove the vacuum lines from the intake and throttle body, depending on your year and motor, the number and locations may vary.
Disconnect the fuel line. You will need a fuel line removal tool that you can get for about $15 bux max at the auto parts store. This tool fits in between the fuel line and the fuel rail and has a spring clip on the inside that needs to be opened to get the line off.
Older Jeeps have a return line that goes back to the fuel tank
, remove this line from the fuel pressure regulator.
You can at this point remove the throttle body if you choose but it is not necessary , get a new gasket for it when you put it back on. The pic below shows the 3 electrical connectors and their approximate locations to the throttle body.
If equipped, remove the EGR connections off the back of the intake manifold. You might have to disconnect the pipe coming from the exhaust (mine is doesn’t have this so do what you have to do so you can lift off the manifold).
Loosen all of the intake manifold bolts, then remove them.
The manifold is now ready to come off. It might need a little bit of prying but nothing major. Although my valve covers are off, you do not need to remove them to get the intake manifold off.
Here’s the only picture I have to show that has the intake off.
Once the intake is off, send in your helper and have him clean off ALL of the gasket material that is on the heads and block. I always put an old towel in there to catch as much debris as possible, then shop vacuum the lifter valley to make sure I don’t miss anything. There will be gaskets that your removing from the front and rear of the block that are rubbery, toss these in the trash and make sure to get all of the sealant off of the block and head.
Here he’s cleaning the silicon off the ends of the lifter valley using a scraper that has a razor blade in the tip. Nice and sharp… (note that my heads are gone because of a head swap that I did).
Make sure your helper is out of the way when moving heavy objects… he got wacked with a header…
Here is what the plate looked like with oil seeping in. Note that it was coming from the end of the manifold near the distributor. This is a mild leak. Others have the gasket torn and have oil pools much larger than this.
At this point you can either put on the new gasket and bolt it back together or put on a plenum kit that has an updated pan made of aluminum so this doesn’t happen again.
Follow the torque sequence for installing the new plenum plate, Refer to the TSB for the torque settings and sequence http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/09-05-00.htm and for installing the intake manifold back onto the block. Pay close attention to the torque sequence when mounting the intake back on. The TSB says 2 steps to get to 84 in lbs, I’ve seen a 3 step procedure in the past, either will work. TAKE YOUR TIME on this.
You will need to put a dab of silcon sealant at the ends of the intake manifold gasket where it sits on the front & back of the block. where the block meets the head and intake manifold.
Once the manifold is bolted down, your ready to re-assemble. Re-assemble it in the reverse order of disassembly and you’ll be good to go.
*****
Remove the fuel pump relay and start the motor and wait until it dies. This will relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel rail.
Disconnect battery
Remove the air cleaner or CAI from the engine compartment.
Remove the distributor cap and all of the sparkplug wires.
Drain coolant into a bucket using a hose on the end of the drain plug so you don’t make a mess.
Remove the upper radiator hose. Now is a good time to cut off the “Front†tab on the thermostat housing so your able to remove it without having to tear apart the front of the motor.
Remove the main heater hose to the left of the t-stat housing.
Remove the bypass hose that goes from the intake manifold to the waterpump. I usually just cut it off and get a new one since its such a PITA to get to.
Unbolt the ground that is in the fuel injector wiring harness on the drivers side of the engine from the power steering pump bracket.
Disconnect the IAT (intake air temperature) and CT (coolant temperature) sensors from the wiring harness on the passenger side of the intake manifold.
Disconnect all of the fuel injector connections on both sides.
Carefully move both wiring harnesses out of the way and secure them so they are not dropping back into your work area.
Disconnect the IAC (intake air control) valve connection from the back of the throttle body, the TPS (throttle position sensor) from the drivers side of the throttle body and the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) from the front of the throttle body.
Remove the cables from the throttle body (throttle, TV for the transmission if an Automatic, and cruise if equipped).
Remove the vacuum lines from the intake and throttle body, depending on your year and motor, the number and locations may vary.
Disconnect the fuel line. You will need a fuel line removal tool that you can get for about $15 bux max at the auto parts store. This tool fits in between the fuel line and the fuel rail and has a spring clip on the inside that needs to be opened to get the line off.
Older Jeeps have a return line that goes back to the fuel tank
, remove this line from the fuel pressure regulator.You can at this point remove the throttle body if you choose but it is not necessary , get a new gasket for it when you put it back on. The pic below shows the 3 electrical connectors and their approximate locations to the throttle body.
If equipped, remove the EGR connections off the back of the intake manifold. You might have to disconnect the pipe coming from the exhaust (mine is doesn’t have this so do what you have to do so you can lift off the manifold).
Loosen all of the intake manifold bolts, then remove them.
The manifold is now ready to come off. It might need a little bit of prying but nothing major. Although my valve covers are off, you do not need to remove them to get the intake manifold off.
Here’s the only picture I have to show that has the intake off.
Once the intake is off, send in your helper and have him clean off ALL of the gasket material that is on the heads and block. I always put an old towel in there to catch as much debris as possible, then shop vacuum the lifter valley to make sure I don’t miss anything. There will be gaskets that your removing from the front and rear of the block that are rubbery, toss these in the trash and make sure to get all of the sealant off of the block and head.
Here he’s cleaning the silicon off the ends of the lifter valley using a scraper that has a razor blade in the tip. Nice and sharp… (note that my heads are gone because of a head swap that I did).
Make sure your helper is out of the way when moving heavy objects… he got wacked with a header…
Here is what the plate looked like with oil seeping in. Note that it was coming from the end of the manifold near the distributor. This is a mild leak. Others have the gasket torn and have oil pools much larger than this.
At this point you can either put on the new gasket and bolt it back together or put on a plenum kit that has an updated pan made of aluminum so this doesn’t happen again.
Follow the torque
sequence for installing the new plenum plate, Refer to the TSB for the torque settings and sequence http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/09-05-00.htm and for installing the intake manifold back onto the block. Pay close attention to the torque sequence when mounting the intake back on. The TSB says 2 steps to get to 84 in lbs, I’ve seen a 3 step procedure in the past, either will work. TAKE YOUR TIME on this.You will need to put a dab of silcon sealant at the ends of the intake manifold gasket where it sits on the front & back of the block. where the block meets the head and intake manifold.
Once the manifold is bolted down, your ready to re-assemble. Re-assemble it in the reverse order of disassembly and you’ll be good to go.
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Professional
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 128
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From: Southeast Missouri
I have also noticed
that many of the people on here didn't disconnect the fuel rail and all that. I would assume i can lift the intake off and lay it upside down without having to do all of that. If someone has a straight forward way to do this without removing so much, please let me know. I would like to pull this in the garage tonight after work, start on it about 4:30 and bring my truck back to work with me tommorow.
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Professional
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 128
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From: Southeast Missouri
local parts store
has the complete upper and lower gasket set, thermostat, and tb gasket. They have everything but the manifold bolts. Said those would be $50 and take a week to come in. Have any of you done the plenum gasket without changing the bolts?