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MonteC's Transmission Corner (For Info Only)

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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 09:14 PM
  #151  
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MonteC
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Originally Posted by J415
Here you go: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm
It's a pretty bulky site so you'll have to scroll down about half way before you actually find it. These guys also have a store on ebay so you can check there as well. Hope you don't mind me answering this easy question MonteC...One less for you to answer.
I appreciate it!
 
Old Apr 20, 2010 | 10:52 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by MonteC
Adjust the second gear band.
Alright I brought my truck into the shop today, dropped the trans pan, new filter and oil, then adjusted both bands, took it out for a run up the hill by my shop, hit 4000 rpm in second and it still let go. any other suggestions for me? thanks.
 
Old Apr 21, 2010 | 12:50 AM
  #153  
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Its not so much a big problem but when I race people with my truck sometimes it doesnt want to shift into second, It will rev out till 5k and keep going to the rev limiter. If I let off the gas and slam back on it right as it gets to 5k it will shift and have no problems with any other gears.

Doesnt bother me much the truck has 160k miles on the stock tranny and under normal driving there are no problems is this a sign of bands getting some slack or it just being a little worn after all these miles, the truck did tow a decent sized boat(26') for the first 6 or so years and has only dealt with my driving for the last couple, Im young and like to have fun
 
Old Apr 21, 2010 | 02:14 AM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by redheadhunter21
Its not so much a big problem but when I race people with my truck sometimes it doesnt want to shift into second, It will rev out till 5k and keep going to the rev limiter. If I let off the gas and slam back on it right as it gets to 5k it will shift and have no problems with any other gears.

Doesnt bother me much the truck has 160k miles on the stock tranny and under normal driving there are no problems is this a sign of bands getting some slack or it just being a little worn after all these miles, the truck did tow a decent sized boat(26') for the first 6 or so years and has only dealt with my driving for the last couple, Im young and like to have fun
MonteC addressed that problem earlier in the thread by upgrading to the GM solenoid. Go back in the thread and check it out.
 
Old Apr 21, 2010 | 08:17 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by dodgeram01
Alright I brought my truck into the shop today, dropped the trans pan, new filter and oil, then adjusted both bands, took it out for a run up the hill by my shop, hit 4000 rpm in second and it still let go. any other suggestions for me? thanks.
Sounds like the band is worn out. Or a seriously messed up valvebody. If a transmission neutralizes thats never a positive sign, and usually means its time for a rebuild.
 
Old Apr 21, 2010 | 08:18 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by J415
MonteC addressed that problem earlier in the thread by upgrading to the GM solenoid. Go back in the thread and check it out.
Yup. That stock dodge solenoid will become flooded sometimes at WOT, causing a no upshift situation.
 
Old Apr 21, 2010 | 09:02 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by redheadhunter21
If I let off the gas and slam back on it right as it gets to 5k it will shift and have no problems with any other gears.
Here's the link to the thread:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ng-issues.html
 
Old Apr 22, 2010 | 06:13 AM
  #158  
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MonteC, there has been some discussion in your absence about removing the check ball and fluid drain back and I would like your input on it.
My truck is one of the trucks with the drain back issue. If the truck has been sitting over night, when I start it I have to put it in neutral and wait about 5-10 seconds before I put it in drive before taking off because otherwise there will be a delay before the drive line gets power. I know I could put it in drive and wait also, I just figure neutral is better for it.
The transmission was rebuilt less than 10,000 miles ago and the check ball was removed along with the installation of the stand alone cooler and a new torque converter.

My other question is about the transfer case. I changed the transmission output shaft and the transfer case input shaft seals a few months ago and I didn't use 4x4 for more than a few minutes at a time since changing them. The other day I was in 4x4 for about 4 hours straight and afterward I noticed transmission fluid slowly leaking between the transmission and the transfer case. I assume that means that I screwed up the RTV on the aluminum ring that holds the transfer case input shaft seal since the chain doesn't churn up the fluid in two wheel drive (I think) and it wouldn't sling fluid up to that drain hole on the ring. Am I on the right track?
 
Old Apr 22, 2010 | 08:48 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by Sheriff420
MonteC, there has been some discussion in your absence about removing the check ball and fluid drain back and I would like your input on it.
My truck is one of the trucks with the drain back issue. If the truck has been sitting over night, when I start it I have to put it in neutral and wait about 5-10 seconds before I put it in drive before taking off because otherwise there will be a delay before the drive line gets power. I know I could put it in drive and wait also, I just figure neutral is better for it.
The transmission was rebuilt less than 10,000 miles ago and the check ball was removed along with the installation of the stand alone cooler and a new torque converter.

My other question is about the transfer case. I changed the transmission output shaft and the transfer case input shaft seals a few months ago and I didn't use 4x4 for more than a few minutes at a time since changing them. The other day I was in 4x4 for about 4 hours straight and afterward I noticed transmission fluid slowly leaking between the transmission and the transfer case. I assume that means that I screwed up the RTV on the aluminum ring that holds the transfer case input shaft seal since the chain doesn't churn up the fluid in two wheel drive (I think) and it wouldn't sling fluid up to that drain hole on the ring. Am I on the right track?
I remove the check valve in every rebuild on a chrysler truck. I have NEVER had a delay after a rebuild, or anytime afterward. Your builder needs to address this problem it it is still in warranty.

About the transfer case, where did you put RTV?
 
Old Apr 23, 2010 | 01:46 AM
  #160  
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I'm not sure if it is still under warranty but I think it isn't.

I put the RTV between the ring that holds the seal in this picture and the mounting surface that it came off of. I also lined up the drain hole with the groove in the ring like it is supposed to be. I'm thinking that I just had it too thin or thick in a spot, maybe.

 



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