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CAUTION! Coroded brake lines can fail!

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  #31  
Old 06-23-2010, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Sport1500
I figured I would share this in case anybody is in the same boat as me after replacing brake lines. I killed the clips holding my wheel well splash guard when I removed them. I figured oh well and went to the dealer to replace. It was going to be over $50 for 9 of them lol. I said forget that. I found them on eBay in packs of 25 for under $10 shipped: http://motors.desc.shop.ebay.com/i.h...0.l1313&_rdc=1

Rob
A friend who works at a body shop also helps Just put my fender back in last night when he brought home the clips and tool.
 
  #32  
Old 06-23-2010, 08:20 PM
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just used the push in clips from Autozone.
was like five bucks for a pack of 15....

Just looked in garage.
Panel retainers for crysler,ford,gm.dorman P/N 799-135.
They have been holding up fine, and I got 6 spares.....LOL
 
  #33  
Old 06-28-2010, 11:48 PM
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So If I'm replacing the lines under the hood down to the front wheels, from the master cylinder to the box thing, and basically all lines under the hood what size are they? What size are the ones under the truck?
 
  #34  
Old 06-29-2010, 08:08 AM
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All lines are 3/16. The ones that touch the proportioning valve under the hood are bubble flare. Thats why the block on the frame is there, to convert bubble flare to regular 37*.

Everything else on the truck is 37* standard double flare. Make sure you get new wheel cylinders and some new bleeders in case you break one off.
 
  #35  
Old 06-29-2010, 10:06 PM
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So can I do the bubble flare or whatever with a standard flare tool? Or do I need to get those lines from the dealer? Or what?
 
  #36  
Old 06-30-2010, 01:53 PM
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You cant use the standard flare tool, you need a metric bubble flare tool. You can buy the premade lines, but, look at the nuts, some are larger than regular and you would need to use your existing nuts, with a made up line to do those. Best bet is to buy the $35 tool and make the metric lines yourself.
 
  #37  
Old 06-30-2010, 09:03 PM
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Anyone know what size fittings I need to get? Also does anyone have a link to the tools I need? Finding all this stuff that fits and is what I need is why I've always passed up on making my own brake lines in the past. I'm thinking it's time to learn how to do it though.
 
  #38  
Old 07-01-2010, 12:36 PM
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So after getting my truck back today I did some more checking all over the whole truck. The only lines that have an rust on them at all are one going from the master cylinder to the box thing. This is very very light brown spots on it. Not really rust yet, and the other one is one going from the box down to a connector right at the front drivers side wheel. It's got a decent bit of surface rust, but isn't rusted through. So it's only 2 lines and not very long lines at all. I'd just like to go ahead and change them so I don't have to worry for quite a while. Should I get the tools to make these or since it's only two lines should I just buy the lines?
 
  #39  
Old 07-01-2010, 12:39 PM
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I am always and advocate of buying more tools.....

But, if you don't see yourself using them enough to make the purchase worthwhile.... just pick up a couple lines, and be done with it.
 
  #40  
Old 07-01-2010, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
I am always and advocate of buying more tools.....

But, if you don't see yourself using them enough to make the purchase worthwhile.... just pick up a couple lines, and be done with it.
Trying to decide. I don't want to spend a ton more just for the tools and to make the lines than I would if I just bought the lines. However, I figure if I buy them now that I can use them later. So it it would be similar in cost to just replacing the lines I'd just buy the tools.
 


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