I am about to put the old girl out of her misery.

About five months ago, my transmission went out. I had a NV3500, so I sourced a NV4500 and HD 241 transfer case. I also bought a 3/4 ton clutch and flywheel. All this behind a 318. She fired, and seemed to do well... for about a week. I went out on the beach, and my front axle went out. So I pulled it and started the overhaul. About halfway throughthe axle rebuild (about two weeks) I went to crank her and let her run. But she wouldn't fire. I went through plugs, wires, etc. and ended with the cam and crank sensor. The crank sensor looked like it had a thin layer of it's face shaved off by the flywheel. I replaced it, but it gave me such a fit because it wouldn't go straight in and the bolts didn't want to start straight. After that, she begrudgingly cranked, but won't come close to an idle. I got trouble codes about both the sensors, and lfound that my compressionwas low on cylinders #1 and #7. I just pulled the intake and heads off and checked the crank sensor. It already has a layer shaved off by the flywheel. Is there some spacer that sits between the crank and flywheel? Is this normal? Please help....
P.S. According to Advance Auto Parts, tha crank sensors are the same for any V8

 

There was no spacer on mine when I replaced mine.
Is it possible there is slight difference in diameter of new flywheel and old one?
If you did not use an OEM crank sensor might I suggest you do.
I replaced mine with NAPA sensor and had all kinds of running issues.
Not like what you are haveing but engine actually dieing, replaced it with OEM and issues are gone.

Dave

 

What flywheel and cluth did you purchase?

Dave

 

Ok, hang on here. Now, you've gone through a ton of stuff (intake and heads) but, in light of the scope of the problem, this occurred POST axle change correct?

In lieu of your question regarding the CKPS sensor, It is not supposed to contact the flywheel. The OEM stock models are designed and spec'd to a given length that when installed properly, provides a slight gap between it and the flywheel respectively.

Now, with aftemarket CKPS, these are molded sometimes longer than OEM thus creating interference at the flywheel thus damaging the sensor face.

The other thing that I must educate you on is that the OEM sensors are 100% tested for electrical characteristics and performance while the 3rd party JUNK are commonly sold as blems, and performance rejects that the dealer WILL NOT BUY. Those that are not bought off are sold to 3rd party brokers that distribute those things to auto chain stores at a significantly reduced cost. This is why 3rd party costs are so much less than a OEM dealer part and, out here in So Cal, they go for 180.00.

Now, the real question here is: what is the root cause for the vehicle not starting. You may actually be headed down the wrong road in this case.

For, if it were a CKPS or CPS (even though your getting fault codes), it may be something as simple as those systems not getting power. Perhaps something was disconnected at the time of working on the vehicle (such as a ground) and part of the CKT is not functioning do to an OPEN CKT condition.

If it ran fine before, I suspect nothing at the sensor level is faulting but rather, that something in the circuit is not connected thus tripping that OBD code as a result of an OPEN CKT.

When I look at the scope of work in this case, I note the following:

- you had a working, running vehicle PRE axle change

- one change was made- axle was R&R'd.

- After axle change (two weeks) it failed to start thus leading to a NO START condition.

It is my belief that the root cause for this failure is rooted during the disconnection of something during the axle removal process.

Recommendations: Put the OEM sensors back in, put the heads and intake back on and begin looking for a ground that is disconnected. This ground will most likely be a chassis ground, 14 AWG -10 AWG BLACK conductor.

CM

 

Thanks to all for your input. Yes, she "ran", but rather poorly. I also forgot to mention that when I wnet mudding and splashed into a puddle, the engine would stall out for 3 - 5 minutes. Is this a clue? Anyway, as far as I know, it was the OEM sensor. I think most of the sticker was still on it. But it was worn away as well. Not to the extent this is, but still worn away. The clutch, I think was CarQuest, the flywheel was NAPA, and I pulled the top of the engine because of the low compression and a few valves leaking oil.

 

This, in turn, made it easier to acess these sensors. I am now contemplating pulling the engine and checking the new flywheel against the old. Could it be a difference in cranks? This flywheel was for a 360 crank, not a 318. Again, any thoughts?

 

Also, when I say she would "run", I mean she'd lope, and kinda spit and sputter at idle.

 

If you have a 360 flywheel on the back of a 318 engine, you are asking for trouble. 318 is internally balanced, 360 is externally balanced. Using the 360FW on the 318 puts the rotating assembly WAY off, and it is possible that this imbalance is causing the flywheel to 'scrub' the crank sensor. You need to change that. I am pretty sure the cranks sensor doesn't take kindly to being ground on.

 

When I read this, , running well means that there were no issues -until: There's no mention of it running poorly, sputtering PRIOR to the axle change. When wording a post, choose your wording wisely because, as written above, one is lead to believe that it ran "well" before the axle change thus putting a whole different spin on things.

CM

 

Point taken. Sorry about that. It ran, but would shut down for no apparent reason. So, where do I go from here? I still have the old fly wheel. Now that you mention it, the drivetrain has been vibrating since then. I was told it was the super trans and I needed to quit whining. Can I get this flywheel balanced? Must I buy a new 1/2 ton clutch?