Aim, since you're putting a lot of thought into this intake, maybe you should get some water detection stickers to stick inside the tube at each end to see if any water does get in there.
This is one I found on ebay but there are a few other places to get them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622

 

Hey AIM!!!

I MESSED UP ON THE DIMENSIONS OF THE FILTER IN MY PICS:

THe filter element in my pics was from my mopar air hat. Well, as we know, mopar has to be different. YOu are looking at 12.5x2.75 as the dimensions. A 14x3 will not work in that assembly. Here are the PNs for the 12.5 x2. 75 Or K&N e1530/e1535 (this one is a bit taller 2.85)

 

I currently own that E1535, but I'll wager its too tall, but maybe not if I grind out that hump.

Did you end up finding the right sized filter to allow the lid to close? Or are you going to leave the hump and do the weatherstrip thing?

 

I ordered the 1535. you will probably need to weatherstrip the edges of the lower assembly where the lid meets it.

I have been thinking about something:

Your lean "problem." I don't think the filter is causing that at WOT (going 70MPH). I think the force of the air and that force of air "beating up" the fuel stream (more atomization) is causing that.

I am not completely sold that more surface area is necessarily better. At Idle...YES (maybe), but not at WOT with a ram air setup with DUAL SCOOPS.

I think more is factored into the equation than just surface area. If you have a smaller filter, the stream of air that is being sucked in will be more "violent" thus mixing the air and fuel better. Hence LEAN. But if you have a 14x3 with an x-stream type lid, then the air coming in will be less "violent" and it will not atomize as good. Hence richer.

THat is just my thought. SO I think we might be wasting time with the air filters.

--Dan

 

meh, just run em wide open without filters... them things just get in the way anyways

 

That's not quite right.

The MAP sensor will correct for the amount of fuel needed for the amount of air coming in.

A "harsher" or "more violent" air stream could atomize fuel better, which would in turn create more complete combustion, but not a lean condition. More than likely, the in-rushing air may be creating more turbulence in the air hat and less air may be getting into the TB due to the turbulence, which is why I was reading rich with the new hat. 12.3:1 is richer than 12.8:1, not leaner. The tune hemi wrote for the round open element was right at 12.8:1 WOT, when I put the snorkels on and ran the same tune, it reads 12.3:1, which means there is slightly more fuel per part of air, or it's possible less air is getting in the intake manifold. A slightly rich condition could be due to cooler IAT temps, but the PCM should be able to compensate as it is within operating temp ranges for the IAT, and PCM fuel tables. It's also possible that the PCM sees the IAT temps drop rapidly and starts a curve that continues on a "Temp Drop Curve" and an extended WOT run may cause it to even out back to 12.8:1 when the temp stabilizes, but I'm not going to drive it up to 100 MPH on a city street to test that theory.

I think testing one sensor variable at a time may be my best bet.

If manifold vac at WOT is the same with the round open element and the dual snorkel setup, I can reasonably assume there is no restriction in the snorkel setup or it's filter size. I can then start researching IAT temps and their effect.

If there is a difference, I either have too small a filter, or the setup is creating turbulence somewhere before the throttle body and I'll have to figure out which one.

Ray had mentioned that over sealing the hat on an old carbed engine actually slowed him down and when he created a trap door for the excess pressure it ran better and his passes at the track were faster. He did not know how that might affect an EFI engine.

Lots of variables to eliminate.

 

Actually, that is exactly like what the edelbrock Pro-Flo filter is.

One probably the cheapest air hat in autozone, and sucks the most air.

 

Seems as though the snorkel setup does flow better.

manifold vac was 1.2"/Hg with the round open air cleaner at WOT, Snorkel setup was 0.9 at WOT.

Lower manifold vac should mean more air.

 

when i did my 14x3 i kept going into advance returning till i got the right one lol ,

 

do you think this is also maybe because when driving the air gets pushedinto and up the hose?

also at ide the motor would have to suck air throw the tubes, and the air would have friction on the inside of the tube?,,,,, the reason but if i use a short graden hose the water comes out fast than is i use a 200ft hoes


just thinking out loud