I have 3 cats...very quiet exhaust. not like the headers, guted cat, and sidepipes dumping on the passenger side with my 1996. i could not really hear my radio.

Glad to hear this setup does not have so much of a sucking sound. I can't wait to put it on this weekend. I will post pictures. Although mine will not be as pretty as yours. I am not repainting it.

Oh, do you think the rich condition could be because of the relocation of the IAT?

 

Its possible, I don't know exactly how much the IAT plays a role in fuel trims. I know you can unplug it and still drive pretty normally, so I'd assume not much.

 

I just assumed if it read cooler, it would put more fuel in to the mix to compensate for a cooler air charge.

Personally, I do not like the idea of relocation because these computers are built with parameters and met constants to factor into the fuel curves. Intake AIr temperature is one of them.

BTW, how would our trucks handle a dry 25 shot of NO2? I think i want to get the sneaky pete system and do a plate setup. Only because my fire extinguisher is lonely and I want to mount something next to it.

 

I guess the only way to really know is put an IAT in the stock location. Run at WOT with that and check the AF reading. Then switch the connector back to the IAT on the air hat and repeat.

But those IATs cost a pretty penny.

That might be something I will do when I get my wideband.

Man, there are lots of things that you can tinker with if you have a wideband!!

Off the top of my head:
1. Testing spark plugs and wires for the best ones for the truck
2. If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator...mess with some higher fuel pressures! Maybe even compare what a higher fuel pressure with STOCK injectors to aftermarket injectors at stock pressure.
3. Hoardes of tinkering with CAIs, Air hats, and intake air temperatures. Not to mention thermostats.
4. AF ratio at WOT with AC going, and without AC going. Don't know what would happen, but it makes me think.

Some would cost money to test, but others would be very minimal.

 

O2 sensor has more influence than IAT once the engine is in closed loop. In open loop, cooler air can carry more fuel... so, on warmup, and throttle openings that drop the computer into open loop, IAT plays a pretty significant role. Relocating it will tend to have it think the air is cooler than what the tables it uses assumes for positioning, so, you would tend to run a bit richer.

I am not a fan of nitrous..... puts dramatically more oxygen into the mix, and if not compensated for by more fuel, puts the engine rather lean, and opens the door to spark knock. Sure, the O2 will see a leaner mixture, and the PCM will try and compensate for it, question becomes, do the injectors flow enough to do so? I don't know for sure.... but, would hate to find out the answer is 'no', when pistons start breaking..... Wide band O2 would answer the question.

 

I hear ya. I just figured that with the Bosch 24s, a 25 shot would not make the mix too lean. And yes, I would want to see what my baseline AFR is before trying a mod like that.

I too am hesitant on doing things notorious for breaking engines. But i still think about it. THat would be one of the LAST things I do after my list of Brake rotors, heads, headers/cats and maybe a new tranny (PATC or Evil). The stock tranny has no problems, so i will only address that if a problem arises.

 

Nitrous shots, especially dry, are something you definitely would want to ask hemifever about. And I'd be sure that you have the newer dialed in without nitrous so hemi can add the correct amount of fuel to compensate. You'll definitely want an A/F gauge wideband for that stuff.

Also, if you run nitrous and you hit that button, you better not let off WOT or you'll go way lean and BOOM!

 

Hey aim, have you ever seen this intake before http://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/728/10002/-1

 

Someone already posted that in this thread. It has a drop base filter, so you need to put a spacer on it. And it would be a tight fit. I can BARELY get my mopar performance one in my truck, and that looks beefier.

It is basically the same thing. Except you will need to buy the air filter. I think it is about 20 bucks if you get a spectre filter, but it will be twice that if you get a K&N. I think spectre filters are better. They look a tad thicker so they won;t let as much dirt into the engine.

I had a Spectre filter and a K&N filter next to eachother at autozone. It was a panel type for my wife's yukon. The spectre looked like a quality product and the K&N looked like a cheaper product. I have been high on spectre ever since then.

--Dan

 

I missed the link, all the tech talk made my eyes start to haze over after working a 12 hour shift.