ok sorry to ask stupid questions, the only way at this point to test is to drop the fuel tank and test for power right? THanks you guys have been awesome!

 

May not even need to drop the tank... might be able to disconnect the plug in place. there is a bit of room between the bed, and the tank.... have a look, see what ya think.

 

DO NOT DISCONNET THE PLUG! What you need to do is crawl under to the tank and, you can even jack the rear end up if it's low to gain more clearance.

Sit on the ground and then sit up between the body and fuel pump. From there, plenty of room to move and insert the probes FROM THE BACKSHELL. The backshell is already facing the driver side and, it's on the right side of the pump making it easy to access. Once under there, you'll see that there's a ton of room to gain access to that pump. It's just that you've never done it before so, I know how that is.



CAUTION: DO NOT REMOVE THE CONNECTOR AND, DO NOT MEASURE VOLTAGE FROM THE FRONT SIDE OF THE CONNECTOR. THE LAST THING YOU WANT TO DO IS TO CREATE A HUGE A-S-S ARC RIGHT AT THE FUEL PUMP. THIS IS A 12V, @ 20A CKT. THAT IS A SURE WAY TO GET YOURSELF INTO MAJOR TROUBLE IF THERE'S A FUEL VAPOR LEAK They do make special front test connectors but, we are not using those here so, just insert the RED probe into the RED wire and ground the other probe to chassis. This is the safe and correct method to doing this.

Be safe,

CM

 

How's it going? Any readings yet? Is there voltage to the pump and, if so, what is the voltage witnessed / measured?

CM

 

Ok waiting on a jack good to know I dont have to drop the tanks yet, and its has been freaking raining, hopefully before the day is over I will be able to get some time in there to get the reading!! Really hope I can fix this looked up fuel pump price 2-230.00 that is gonna hurt.

Oh and is there any particulay way I should test the voltage? Or just turn the key foward and get the reading, just want to be sure so I dont have to get under her twice.


THanks again you have all been AWESOME!!

 

I am having the same issues w/ my 2000 5.2L 1500 Van- Are your gauges not working when you turn the key to start? It is an intermittant problem since it starts after a a little while and sometimes right away. Sometimes this occurs while I'm moving at hwy speed. Doubt that it's a fuel issue-definately not a dead battery since it cranks strong. It seems to be more of a electrical problem. These symptoms started occuring once in a while and now it's much more frequent. Once it restarts it runs fine for a while.

I'm sure we aren't the first with this appearently common problem and I see the same question on other sites but no one has come up with a solution yet. Someone out there must have corrected this problem by now!

 

You run the test exactly as described. Do not deviate from what is outlined. YES: KEY <ON> do not attempt to START the vehicle. All you need to know is if power is being applied to the pump- that's it and, to do that, you place the probes as described and, then turn the KEY <ON> and get a reading.

CM

 

Sounds like you've got a cluster issue or, an anomaly in the electrical system. This should be under a new thread.

CM

 

This is a no start problem.

 

I know. I didn't mean it that way. We've got four no starts on here and, it's easier to repsond and troubleshoot each one seprately in it's own thread. He's got an issue where, the fuel pump is not working and, it's not intermittent so, to comingle your issue with his, it would be listing two types of failure mode trees which, can get really confusing when others go to read / learn from it as, they may not realize there's two separate posters with different issues thus leading to different tests and so forth.

CM