Hate to say it Stands, but "your post’s haven’t given you any credibility with all the errors" either. I mean all the typos...and lack of spaces between sentences...and misspellings....

Seriously, if you want to trash someone, get the grammar right.

 

deal with it.i dont sit at a desk typing on the www all day either.QUACK QUACK

 

Just for the record here: I do my OWN work and, I work on vehicles in my spare time including Hot Rods.

I fabricated the entire fuel delivery system as well as rebuilding the entire upper end of the motor. I have a small shop on my property here in So Cal and, I have quite a few clients that come in to have electrical and mechanical work done when I'm in between jobs.

I don't do trannies nor the diffs / gearing however.

The CPS sensor wire and CKPS wire is NOT bundled into the main wiring harness nor is it tied to the V-cover on my truck and, it has never been.

They can be routed either, IN FRONT or BEHIND the dizzy to where, if your changing out an intake, it is quite possible for the wires to slip under the rear end of the intake and become pinched thus shorting out the 5-volt supply.

CM

 

Holy cow guys . . man do you guys go off and claim I'm lying? Like I have something to lie about? I laid on that engine for an entire day looking for a problem. I would have gladly had a connector unplugged and fixed it. I would have thanked the forum and went on my way. You can trust me, I found a pinched wire. There is a two wire harness that runs from the left ( drivers ) side of the engine, around back to I believe the dizzy. It is a gray sheath. It is basically flat wire, much like a lamp cord. It was running around the end of the intake and got caught under the head of the rear intake bolt. It was just barely caught. When just looking back there I did not notice it. But the pinch did indeed cut the sheath and grounded the conductor inside. Because this happened just as I said, I find it totally ridiculous for the so-called experts to doubt it. As soon as I found the wire, I knew it was the problem. All I did was loosen the bolt, pull the wire out and immediately turn the key. The fuel gauge shot up and I knew it was going to start, which it did. I then taped the wire up and everything is fine. You need to check the area closer if you think this can't happen. I didn't even disconnect any of the rear wires, there was no reason to do that. So I do not think I ran the wire is a different location, but I can only speak to what is there on this engine. That wire runs in such a way that it can and did get pinched. Wow guys, unbelievable.

 

I returned the truck to the owner, but after all this . . man I would love to photograph the pinched wire. Just a short note about me. I was a high school auto teacher for 20 years. I also am a Mustang restorer. I have very good common automotive knowledge. I have zero experience working on one of these Dodge engines. But I knew I could certainly do the job. When I had a problem and could not figure any reason for it, I came here to get some first hand experience. People come to me everyday for Mustang advice. I understand how valuable direct experience is. I was right. I was able to get some info that lead me to finding the problem. I was crushed that the vehicle didn't start right back up and knew what I had done and what I hadn't. I have done a lot of work on Ford EEC IV computer system and using my knowledge from there couldn't figure what I did that would cause the problem I had. Therefore, I came here. Again thank you to the guys who offered help and I feel sorry to the guys that can't believe it

 

When someone answers a question and you see that they are an engineer that would lead you to believe they know a bit more than the average guy from a technical standpoint, credibility is a key word in your statement.

Being an engineer it is his nature to look at whichever issue someone is having and break it down to it's most basic form, meaning "this is connected to that, that is connected to this, that doesn't work if this is disconnected etc..." and that is very helpful when someone is looking at a problem and it happens to be something that they never would have thought of that is the cause of their problem.

Also, he is an engineer who happens to own a Dodge Ram so he knows a thing or two about the specific vehicle that he is helping people work on.

That sounds like the camshaft position sensor. That wire goes under the distributor cap.

Was it the gray plug that is just behind the fuel injector that is closest to the firewall in this picture?

 

I agree, it is unbelievable the amount of crap we have to put up with and, this is not the first time this has happened to me on this forum and, it won't be the last time either I'm afraid.

I too, wish that we would have seen this coming so we could have taken pictures of this to show the hard evidence and, that this is a potential problem and, it does happen.

To further to ADD to that, when the 5-volt supply is shorted to GND, the CLUSTER will NOT work - just as I have explained umpteen times on here to disbelievers. I also posted a link and still, they refuse to acknowledge this despite seeing this written by a Dodge Mechanic. Then, he asks why I posted that link along with trying to discredit the supporting evidence to which, the explanation is simple: it's unbiased, outside of DF and, from a certified Dodge Mechanic.

The worst part is all the implications that we are liars participating in some grand scheme to prove a point. Even after having a real-world case present itself, along with supporting evidence that firmly supports what I've said all along, we're still dealing with the nonsense about discredit, how all my posts are wrong and have tons of errors and how I'm an "arm chair mechanic" and what we presented here was all BS / lies.

As the old saying goes, you can lead the horse to water, but, you can't make him drink it.

CM

 

Sheriff,

I can also take some pictures. See if you can get a cam BEHIND the intake along with showing the CPS harness running in FRONT of the diz.

CM

 

That is from a little while back when I put the airgap on, I'll edit this in a little bit and add a picture. Summer heat, here I come with a camera!

Edit: This is the best I could get. When I get my camera as close as it needs to be to get a picture from that angle it has a hard time capturing what I want it to.

I take it this is the bolt that stumped you Pete, you can just barely see the head.

 

Erm, just out of idle curiosity....... why in hell would anyone 'conspire' to post threads on an internet forum for dodge trucks? What is there to gain? What would that accomplish? Somehow, I seriously doubt that anyone is sending mr mckenna checks for his help with solving their problems.......

Let me put forth another possible theory. Someones tin foil hat fits too loosely.

Mr. Mckenna has established his credibility here long ago. I have absolutely zero reason to doubt him, and just looking at the way he writes posts for troubleshooting, he doesn't NEED to tell me he is an engineer for it to be patently obvious.......

That said, the OP has already stated that this WAS the problem, and the truck is now back in the hands of its owner, and runs. So, what is the need to continue this debate? Is our resident conspiracy theorist also a troll? Prove me wrong. Accept this thread for what it was, and let it drop.