ok 1st off today is my b-day im now 23 , getting old fast !!

im wondering for the guys who went to OEM breaks, to drilled and slotted ,if theres a big diffrence there . also i think you can get drums like that also... my breaks have not been done before and i would like to do them right the 1st time and have them for a while .


heres what im looking at so far , any other reccomendations ? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-8748XPR/

 

happy birthday buddy!

 

250 bucks for rotors??? Ouch. I think as far as 'bang for the buck' goes, you aren't going to get what you are looking for there. Save a pile of money, get stock rotors, (if you even need to replace your current rotors) and spend some money on Premium pads. (carbon ceramic?)

Also, on the rears, the 1 ton wheel cylinders are a nice upgrade.

And: Happy Birthday! Been a long time since I was 23.......

 

how hard is it to switch to 1 tons ? can you find me a link

thanks guys ! !

 

+1, make sure you adjust the rears every oil change. Try adjusting them now actually. You will notice a difference. And Happy B-Day.

 

From what I understand, the GM 1-ton wheel cylinders for the same year truck are a direct bolt in. There have been a bunch of threads on this around here in the last month or so.

Here's a good thread.

 

hey happy b-day man!....my 23 birthday is Oct. 10, so we are right next to each other with age lol.....



really the 1 ton cyliners are a nice upgrade? just the cylinders alone? might have to look into that...

IMHO, stick with regular rotors....i just re-did all my breaks, front pads, rotors, drums, rear shoes and hardware, and theres plenty of stopping power...just the rears come un-adjusted way to easy...have to re-adjust them like every 2K

 

I never had that problem..... (of course, I have a 2500 too....) Wonder if your adjusters were installed on the wrong sides of the truck?

 

Drilled/slotted rotors are for bling. They create stress points and lower braking surface area. Modern pads don't gas, and don't need venting. Anything other than a high quality solid rotor is a waste of money.

I see a lot of people on this forum asking about drilled/slotted rotors and very few posts with factually correct responses.

 

no i took pictures, and had my haynes manual handy, it was installed right...did one side at a time, and matched up the parts exacally, so i feel theres a 98% everything is right.....when i adjust them, they are fine for 2-3K, then it gradually makes it so its only the front breaks stopping it.