On buying shocks and breaks on a lifted truck
#1
On buying shocks and breaks on a lifted truck
So here is the deal. I bought my truck (1995 ram 4x4 slt) about two years ago. It had about 142k miles on it, I havn't changed the breaks yet but i've been meaning to.
My break line failed and I had it fixed and was told that the rear shock needs to be replaced and the brakes have 20% left. I know how to fix breaks, no big deal. I've never replaced shocks but a brief read doesnt make it appear impossible for me to handle.
Anyways
These are the uses I have of my truck:
My break line failed and I had it fixed and was told that the rear shock needs to be replaced and the brakes have 20% left. I know how to fix breaks, no big deal. I've never replaced shocks but a brief read doesnt make it appear impossible for me to handle.
Anyways
These are the uses I have of my truck:
- Apparently the truck is lifted 1' from normal. This is what was told to me when I bought the truck. It does look lifted but I don't know if 1' is exact or not.
- I haul a small 20' bowrider boat around maybe 6 times a year.
- Once or twice a year I haul around a truck load of dirt.
- Once or twice a year I haul around a trucks worth of home furnishings.
- Maybe 4 times a year I haul around construction material. lumber, stone, cement, drywall
- Maybe 10 times a year I do dump runs
- Maybe 10 times a year I use the truck for commuting on a highway 25 min each way.
- Maybe 4 times a year I will travel on a highway longer than an hour
- Maybe once a year I will travel on a highway for 2 hours each way
- I am thinking I would like high performance breaks for those times I am carrying or trailering a lot of weight. The truck is heavy as it just feels like it takes a lot more work to stop the vehicle. In addition, my boats trailer does not have breaks and it takes even longer to compensate for that.
- I don't think I need anything more than standard run of the mill shocks. However I can't tell. On the one hand the truck bounces around a lot. On the other hand I know one of the shocks are bad, so maybe my perception is skewed.
- For both - I don't think it will be necessary to break the bank. I don't think I need top-quality and I also do not want bottom of the barrel. I don't know the different makes / models though.
- On one website, I see shocks being sold as 'standard suspension' or '1' lifted suspension'. Where do I go from here to figure this one out? If I can have some guidenance as to what type of shock to buy I think I'll be in good shape
- Are there larger brakes and smaller brakes, or is the difference in brakes just a matter of material used? The truck has very wide wheels that are larger than whatever stock originally would had come with the truck. So, when looking at the brakes, they just LOOK small relative to the rotors. Could simply be just perception
- Do you have any specific recomendations for breaks and/or shocks?
#3
alright, for the brakes, assuming that we are working on a 1500. I would suggest that you do the rears with premium shoes and hardware kit available from any parts house. followed with 1 ton rear wheel cylinders from a gm product. just ask for wheel cylinders for a 1995 gmc 3500, they will bolt right up and only cost about $9 each. the larger bore will help a bunch. for the front you could go with dodge 2500 calipers and pads (again a little larger bore) and new 1500 rotors. calipers are about $21 each but have a core charge typicaly equal or a little less than that. now your brakes should be mint. shocks with or without this 1 inch lift should be fine with monroe gass magnums ( they are the super common yellow ones most garages install. you can usually find someone running a special buy three get one free installed for what you could carry four out of a parts house for retail, uninstalled. hope this helps I know this stuff will show up in a search. and this is what I have done along with steel braided brake lines wich maybe overkill. I hope this helps.
#4
Just curious but why GM do Dodge 1 ton not fit or does GM offer a larger benefit or both??
#6
this is some great feed back so far.
ok so new questions then:
The rear wheels are on drum breaks. Does that change the opinion or are you just saying to replace the shows inside the drums with premium shoes?
after installing new shocks - does anything need to be re-aligned or am I thinking of tie-rods?
ok so new questions then:
I would suggest that you do the rears with premium shoes and hardware kit available from any parts house. followed with 1 ton rear wheel cylinders from a gm product.
after installing new shocks - does anything need to be re-aligned or am I thinking of tie-rods?
#7
you may not even need shoes. Ive had my truck for 2.5 years and just did the shoes, and they were still in good shape. that being said, that feeling of it almost not having enough brake for the truck, youre shoes probably arent touching the drums. jack up the back take the tire off and turn the drum to see if there is any drag from the brakes, if not adjust the shoes just until you feel a little drag. Did that with mine and its a night/day difference from before
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#8