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Broken plenum stud help

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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 09:17 AM
  #11  
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That 5/32" drill bit is dead nuts in the center of the stud.

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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 09:41 AM
  #12  
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So you can't use an abrasive disc and cut a slot in that? You might have to buy something better than what comes in the Dremel kit. And what kind of torch you using?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 09:53 AM
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Thre pics are decieving. The bolt is recessesed about 1/4".

I cant cut a slot cause I will end up cutting the block.

And of course I only have a propane torch. I have read folks using the oxy torch and just melting the bolt out.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 10:58 AM
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Propane torch won't work, not hot enough and melting it out is way too hot. What about drilling a series of almost joining smaller holes around the broken bit and using a punch. And if the bolt is sticking out the bottom any chance of getting a tool on it? If you can get something on it, with the proper heat it will come out.


And btw, if you use a small or worn disc you should be able to get some kind of groove cut. And cutting into the head slightly is not a big deal in that spot.
 

Last edited by zman17; Sep 26, 2010 at 11:00 AM.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:04 AM
  #15  
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There's no cooling passages in that area of the block so what I'd do is cut a slot in the block to put a big enough slot in the stud and drill bit. Might need a carbide or diamond wheel to get the slot clean and true - can pick up a 1/2" - 1" wheel set fairly cheaply. Start the slot dead nuts center on the hole and the stud / drill bit. Once you're low enough into the block and stud lay down a healthy dose of PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating oil and let it sit for a couple hours. Then get in there with a drill / slot driver combination and it should back out fairly easy.

Once you have the stud / bit out clean the hole out good and build the slot back up with JB Weld. Try to build it up 1/32 - 1/16" into the hole to ensure it's sealed. Run through the hole with a tap to ensure the threads are true and you're done.

Granted you'll be cutting into the block so if you're unsure, don't do it....
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:16 AM
  #16  
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First thanks for all yalls suggestions!

Before I start cuttin the block - the port to the left of the bolt in question on the head - it actually doesnt go into the plenum. The plenum is solid there. So any leaks from that area would be to the outside or inside.

Thats not the combustion chamber is it?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:17 AM
  #17  
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Here's what I would try

1 Get a center punch and try to start busting out the drill bit, it's brittle so it will break easy. If you get to a point that the center punch cant reach it any more use a pin punch to carry on. If you are lucky the flutes on the bit will open to you and you my be able to pick it out with needle nose pliers or just a pick or what ever works.
( WEAR SAFETY GLASS'S)

2 If above fails get a bunch of small drill bits and start to drill around the bit in the bolt go all the way though , punch out the drill bit. Re drill hole and then carry on with easy out.

3 Above all stay patient.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:45 AM
  #18  
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That's the head, not the block! And that port to the left is just a coolant port. I strongly recommend you do what you have to,to get that bolt out. You can use a 1 inch disc to cut a groove in that area and not even touch the gasket surface area.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:49 AM
  #19  
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Except for ( WEAR SAFETY GLASS'S) or glasses those two procedures have previously been suggested.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 12:06 PM
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Oops sorry about that.
I can't tell from the pic but he may be able to; pull the water pump and timing chain cover and use a mini angle air drill to attack it from the bottom side.
 

Last edited by merc225hp; Sep 26, 2010 at 12:41 PM. Reason: add info
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