Or just pull the head and be done with it...... take it to a machine shop, have them get it out, or, go at it from the backside.....

 

OK - I thought of this. Since the heads are cast iron, If I purchased a stick welder from Harbour Freight, could I weld on a nut to the broken bolt?

Since the head is cast iron the welds would only stick to the bolt, not the head correct?

 

I have know a couple of welders that could build a bolt like that up, weld a nut on it and turn it out. They are few and far between though.

 

i think it'll just break off and waste money.
the hammer, punch, drill, and patience will work best.

 

+1...I think patience and hand tools are the route to go. I feel for you, when you see your poor old truck all busted up, you want to get it fixed as fast as possible. Good luck.

 

Here are some pics of the progress:

I cant wait to actually start working on relevant items.

I plan to replace the cap, rotor and plug wires, valve cover gaskets, and of course the plenum gasket.

 

nice pics. why do you have a ball valve shutoff installed in your drivers side heater hose ?

 

tip - start spraying the distributor cap bolts with pb blaster or similar penetrating oil to avoid another killer broken bolt.

 

I am guessing the previous owner used the valve to prevent coolant from going to the heater core to make the AC colder?

Tommorrow - CRC Freeze OFF. Looks like it might help:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0BaowQvL6c

 

For a task like the one ahead of you, I wouldn't use any other penetrating lubricant but Freeze Off. I'd heat the area first, then hit the bolt with a good 20 second blast of Freeze Off. Then comes the fun part of tapping the bolt around for three seconds shy of forever until enough is exposed to grasp with locking pliers...

Good luck with it!