Getting ALL the Air Out Of Coolant System
#31
11-10-2010, 07:14 AM
sounds good. just my opinion, but i never let rtv sit to setup. once torqued down, i go ahead and fill it and run it.
i replaced my antifreeze last week. i just pointed the nose uphill and let it idle up to full temp. it took 15 minutes or more. then topped off the rad and overflow tank and called it done. that took all the air out.
i replaced my antifreeze last week. i just pointed the nose uphill and let it idle up to full temp. it took 15 minutes or more. then topped off the rad and overflow tank and called it done. that took all the air out.
#32
11-10-2010, 09:39 AM
sometimes things just don't make sense.
back in the summer i was looking for rear axle seals for the daughter's 4runner. they were listed under "wheel seals" in brakes, as opposed to "axle seals".
are you going to rent a harmonic balance puller?
you'll need an impact wrench to remove/reinstall that big crank bolt.
tip - BEFORE installing the puller, reinstall the big crank bolt to protect those oh-so-precious threads in the end of the crank. you don't want to **** those up and don't ask how i know that. if you have trouble with the big bolt, apply some heat from a propane torch directly on the bolt.
before pulling the sprockets, rotate engine so the dots line up. then remove and reinstall. they're keyed so they only go one way. don't rotate engine with sprockets removed.
back in the summer i was looking for rear axle seals for the daughter's 4runner. they were listed under "wheel seals" in brakes, as opposed to "axle seals".
are you going to rent a harmonic balance puller?
you'll need an impact wrench to remove/reinstall that big crank bolt.
tip - BEFORE installing the puller, reinstall the big crank bolt to protect those oh-so-precious threads in the end of the crank. you don't want to **** those up and don't ask how i know that. if you have trouble with the big bolt, apply some heat from a propane torch directly on the bolt.
before pulling the sprockets, rotate engine so the dots line up. then remove and reinstall. they're keyed so they only go one way. don't rotate engine with sprockets removed.
#35
11-10-2010, 07:03 PM
#36
11-10-2010, 07:37 PM
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UPDATE: so I filled and bled as best I could tonight. I let her run for a good 20-30 minutes. The thermostat cycled a few times. So far, NO LEAKS! I still get the sloshing sound in my heater core, but hopefully parking it on an incline (Rhino ramps) will get the bubbles to the radiator as it cools.
So far so good...
#37
11-10-2010, 08:19 PM
#38
11-10-2010, 08:25 PM
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#39
12-20-2010, 02:31 PM
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Ok so i have the gurgle in my heater core in my 97 dakota. It has a new water pump, new thermostat and i just flushed the heater core and coolant system. Heater core is not leaking. So i suspect air in the coolant system. And it needs to be burped.
So i should park on an incline and take the radiator cap off? is this safe? what keeps coolant from coming shooting out when the engine heats up?
So i should park on an incline and take the radiator cap off? is this safe? what keeps coolant from coming shooting out when the engine heats up?
#40
12-20-2010, 02:37 PM
Find a nice spot to get the passenger side front of the truck up nice and high. Driving up a hill at an angle supposedly works pretty good. DO NOT take the radiator cap off of a hot/pressurized cooling system, you WILL get a VERY rude surprise. I just drove to where I needed to be with the cap loose. (it wasn't very far.)
Or, drive the passenger front tire up onto a ramp.....
Or, drive the passenger front tire up onto a ramp.....
