yeah, I put in new plugs and new wires.

 

cap and rotor?

 

mmm I didnt change those :\

 

I would have a look.......

 

will do

 

changed the rotor and cap and still nothing, then I did a compression test and discovered that the 2 cylinders where it was welded has 30psi and then goes down to 0psi by itself...
bad weld job??? valves not closing and opening properly???

 

Leakdown tester would tell the tale, but, won't prevent you from having to yank the heads again. Did the numbers jump on the wet test? Or stay pretty much the same?

You would probably be much further ahead, just replacing the stock heads, with some better quality aftermarket units.

 

its my parents truck. Not putting money for upgrades

 

Welding heads is not a good idea. Braising is the only way I know to properly fix cast iron, but would probably cost as much as new heads.

Get a cheap set of EQ heads with the stock sized valves from Clearwater cylinder heads for about $275 a piece, or call them about remans or even bare EQs and rebuild them with the parts that are on the current heads you have. Lapping the valves is the only "specialty work" you'd have to do.

 

Major Update:

I changed the head for a non-welded one. It now idles better.
Still no reverse (stalls instantly).

Yesterday I got it to run after give it gas and allowing it to roll little by little
in reverse. After a few minutes, It didn't stall anymore. I drove it around
with no trouble what so ever. But now today its doing the same thing.
Could it be transmission problems?
Low TRansmission fluid?
I know Im close to having it 100%, Its just the stalling issue.

If someone wants to call me feel free.
My number is 956-909-3184.
Mon - Fri Available from 5pm- 10pm
Sat/sun all day.
Thanks!1