What really matters is 1/4 ET...

It runs 12s at 7000' DA, according the people who move up here, that would be 11's at sea level...All motor.

 

Yep RWHP. My Dyno numbers I posted was with a lot smaller cam than I have now...I'd get it on a dyno, but I don't realy care what it makes....LOL

These are 1.92 flow numbers from Ryan Johnson's site. Shady Dell Speedshop.

LIFT-----ASCAST--------PORTED
---------IN/EX----------IN/EX
.200"--135.6/110.4---148.4/111.8
.300"--194.9/154.9---208.7/155.3
.400"--227.4/173.5---243.2/189.1
.450"--233.9/177.3---252.5/194.6
.500"--239.4/179.4---255.6/197.7
.550"--244.9/180.8---259.1/199.8
.600"--245.0/181.8---268.4/201.2
.650"--245.0/181.8---276.0/203.2
.700"--241.5/183.2---281.2/203.2

All #’s at 28” of Water
1.92”/1.625” MP 8MM Valves

Comparing numbers from different benches is like apples to oranges, but I think your heads will be just fine...You got a killer deal on the motor...

 

Not sure which one you got, but I have never been a fan of the lever type unless it's a really expensive one that you can only use with the heads off. I prefer the ones you have to screw down all the way, so you can hold the jaws on the spring while tightening. They work better for a heads-on removal than the lever type heads-on model, more room to work in the engine bay.

one like this works just fine for me:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ntifier=231210

 

shoulda seen the pneumatic spring compressor at the shop. it was awesome! 16 springs in about 30 seconds

 

im taking it to the race shop tomorrow, so ill let you guys know.

but EXCEPT for either a stone hone on 2,4, and 6 or +.010 boring job (410 stroker), shes ready for assembly and has been blueprinted... JUST NUTS AND BOLTS

 

just dropped it off

he felt it and looked at it and he said most likely by the time he got a good finish he would probably be .003-.005 into it (no pits, corrosion). so +.010 will likely be what he has to do. he said hell put a gauge on it and make sure though. he was a little heated that someone allowed his fresh engine to sit out in the elements and get corroded.

i left the entire bottom end with him so he can mock it up and press the new .040 KB's onto the rods. although id like to hear a hone will do (he said he didnt think boring it would be necessary at first, but then i showed it to him and he changed his mind) but if boring is necessary, i guess its worth it.

 

better than not doing it, and having problems later..... See what happens.

 

i guess the real question is, how light will my wallet be afterwards?

 

didn't you mention something about 500 bucks for pistons and such?

Could I talk you into total seal piston rings? (no ring gap.)

 

close to $400 i beleive

the old sealed power set was top ring file fit

total seal... depends on the aformentioned and your sales backgorund .... go on...