What brand rings?

I believe there are indeed specs for end gap on the scrapers...... should have some documentation with your rings???

 

theyre total seal conventional plasma moly tops

he did file the tops and 2nds, but the oil rails are the same for all applications .015".

i was actually talking about the oil ring expander having a red piece connecting the ends on my old set of pistons. do the expanders have an end gap spec? they seem to butt ends right when i put them on

 

will i need to use different types of assembly lube for different parts?

what assembly lube should i use? an oil type or grease type?

 

I'm not going to do the assembly on my short block...I'll just do the heads cam etc.

Here's the specs on my 408 Cam...Courtesy of Ryan Johnson...

248/252 @ .050" 576"/.584" 108 LSA+4

 

im also a bit confused on seating the thrust bearing. the haynes manual says something along the lines of tightening all mains to spec and then tightening the thrust cap to 10 ft lbs and hitting the crank as far as u can to either end...

 

FSM doesn't say anything about gap for the spacer ring, just for the oil control rings. Don't think ya need to worry about that.

I always used spray white lithium grease on bearings and such, and cam lube on the cam.... of course, that was for flat tappet lifters...... not sure it is absolutely necessary for rollers....... might wanna use the cam lube anyway, just in case. In any event, make sure you prime the oil system well before installing the engine. (I just used a drill, and the correct rod that would go into the pump, and spin it. Wait until I had oil coming out the pushrods..... never had a problem.)

Follow the procedure for the thrust bearing. Don't marf up either end of the crank though.

 

click here to have a look at the manual.

read step 22, how do i know when its properly seated?

when tightening caps from the center, should i do 3(12 ftlbs),2,4,1,rear?

where it says retighten, do i untighten all caps, then tighten all caps including the thrust bearing to the spec listed by ARP?

im hoping the oil rails are to spec right out of the box, but ill check them for sure.

so youre not sure of this red plastic-like piece connecting the ends of the expanders that were on my old pistons? it seems the haynes manual is calling them anti-rotation tangs. are these necessary or what?

im also having a heck of a time finding reasonably priced solid rollers...

 

why are the rod bearing surface finishes alot less shiny and smooth when compared to the main bearing surfaces?

is this how they should be?

 

they won't stay shiny even if they buffed them for you. "Dry firing" of the engine every morning puts a hurt on rod bearings.

 

but these are brand new out of the box...