That would be a rather expensive drill bit.

Other alternative is to get a punch, and try and shatter it.

 

Yea, there is no bit( other then a diomand tip) will drill an ez out, they are case hardened..

What o am thinking of doing is taking a ratger smaller drill bit and drilling out all the way around it, and then running a little bit bigger tap in that hole and just using a bigger bolt

Wounded if u can take a spiral easy out, put it in a drill bit.. ang put the drill bit to torque, and backwards.. and just drill the ez out with another? hmmm makes me wounder

 

Yea, there is no bit( other then a diomand tip) will drill an ez out, they are case hardened..

What o am thinking of doing is taking a ratger smaller drill bit and drilling out all the way around it, and then running a little bit bigger tap in that hole and just using a bigger bolt

Wounded if u can take a spiral easy out, put it in a drill bit.. ang put the drill bit to torque, and backwards.. and just drill the ez out with another? hmmm makes me wounder

 

If you can get a small enough bit, so that you can remove a fair bit of material around the (not-so) easy out, you might be able to get it out. That would solve a bit of the problem.

 

If you can get a solid carbide drill bit (approximately 3/16"diameter or slightly smaller), run the rpm slow, keep oil on the drill bit cutting edge and then use a hex head multi-spline screw extractor. These are shorter and more robust than your normal easy-out (or in this case, not-so-easy-out).

Link:
http://www.amazon.com/pc-Head-Multi-.../dp/B002Q5NB80

Or, once you get out the easy-out, use a tap drill size for the broken bolt and then tap a new set of threads, or course being sure not to go too deep and into the I/M.

From my experience, Aerokroil is the best penetrant.
I've talked with competitor product developers and they use this stuff as a comparison when developing new products.
Link:
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

Good luck.

 

Is the bolt sticking through the intake enough to get a pair of channel locks on it? What I mean by that is stick the end of the channel locks into the hole for the thermostat and have one jaw on the bottom end of the bolt and the other on the broken end, then squeeze the bolt as hard as you can and try to get it to spin on out.
Some channel locks like these would be better than the normal style http://www.texastooltraders.com/Irwi...-p6295056.html since they have the cut out for bolts and that would keep you from grabbing the lip around the thermostat
If all else fails and you seriously eff it up and can't find a new intake manifold in a junkyard close to you keep in mind that I still have my old one in the shed (minus a belly pan). I have no use for it and would only want enough to cover shipping and the gas to get it to UPS.

 

I wouldn't try to shatter in an aluminum intake imho, but thats me.

Buddy picked up a bit from tractor supply when we were working on his ford. Stud broke off on the down tube of the manifold. Broke an easy out trying to remove the bolt, and used the drill bit... granted wasn't a walk in the park, but it did abuse the easy out enough to get it out. Just my experience though...

 

You could try cutting about 5 small indents the same as a pizza gets cut (about 1/32" deep) around the edges of the bolt with a Dremel equipped with a cutoff wheel. Then use a small flat tipped punch to catch those cuts and walk it out of the hole after spraying some Knock'er Loose or Freezeoff on them.