9.25 rear axle rebuild
01-16-2011, 05:02 PM
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Gave the truck to the mechanic yesterday morning, and picked it back up a few hours ago. We were of the same opinion.....no need to change ring and pinion gears if no visible damage was done. It drives nice and quiet now, and saved over $700 by not going to certain shops. $148 for Master Bearing kit (including axle bearings/seals), $20 for lube, $200 for his labor. I'm not complaining at all!
01-16-2011, 06:26 PM
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Thank you.. I hope one of the companies that sell them can answer my questions.. I hate the thought of pressing the bearing on and off many times to get the correct adjustments..
Thanks for all the help.
01-16-2011, 06:28 PM
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What some folks to is take something like a brake cylinder hone, and open up the pinion bearing so it is more of a 'slip fit'...... use that one for determining shims, then when you have the right thickness, use the 'real' bearing. There might be some minor differences.... but, beats having to press that bearing on and off multiple times.
01-16-2011, 06:35 PM
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01-22-2011, 03:11 PM
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I have a quick question as I start my rebuild… I put the pinion in with new bearings and crush spacer… As I am torque it down, does the crush spacer start to crush before the bearings are seated? I have about 100lbs of torque on it and still feel left to right movement on the pinion.. Do I need to run it up to 210lbs before the movement is gone? I thought I would ask before I damage something..
Thank you..
01-22-2011, 03:15 PM
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You want to set the bearing preload by measuring the amount of torque it requires to turn the pinion shaft. Should take 15 to 35 inch pounds on new bearings.
01-22-2011, 03:19 PM
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tighten in 5 lb increments checking rotational torque as you go until you get the number you need.you should not exceed 210ft/lbs
01-22-2011, 03:28 PM
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Hope I am understanding this correctly… Slowly increase the torque until I get to 210? At this point the slop in the pinion should be gone?
Thank you.
01-22-2011, 03:37 PM
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No. Slowly increase the torque on the pinion nut, until it takes 15 to 35 inch pounds to turn the pinion. If you crank it down to far, you get to replace the crush sleeve, and start all over again.
01-22-2011, 03:43 PM
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Thank you… this is my first round of setting the ring and pinion to check the depth.. I picked up a couple extra crush spacers for this reason.. the 15 to 35 lbs you are referring to is that without a seal? And with out the differential installed?
Again.. Thanks for all the help..