I don't have 4WAL, and I'm starting to lean toward the wheel cylinder. When I put the new shoes on they seemed a little sticky, but they have been working fine for over 6 months. Would it seem common for both wheel cylinders to go out at the same time? But, wouldn't I be losing a tremendous amount of brake fluid if this happened?

 

If one fails, your rear brakes won't do squat, and you will have the funny pedal. However, as they both live in pretty much the same environment, if you end up replacing one, do 'em both.

 

That sound exactly like my problem, but wouldn't I be losing break fluid if this were the trouble? I guess I could be losing it very slowly as the truck is only driven a few days a week now with the brake problem. I know what I'm doing on Saturday.

 

The reservoir from the rear brakes is pretty small.... so if you were losing fluid, it would be fairly noticeable. (although, I think our trucks have a common reservoir, so maybe not so much so.) You don't think you are losing fluid though, and that is what prompted me to suspect the master cylinder. If an internal seal is blown, you won't lose fluid, but, you won't have any rear brakes either.

 

That makes very good sense. Thanks for all your help guys.

 

Hey all. I am having the same problem with my 97 1500 4wd. The abs and brake light are on and have been that way since I got it stuck in my driveway two weeks ago( Minnesota weather gotta love it). I got the front right front wheel caught in a drift and sucked the right front in. I assumed I may have packed snow in between the ring and the pickup, but that would only be possible if I have 4wal. Now being a 97 I doubt this is the case. Either way you have inspired my to do a deeper inspection of my issue. Btw my brake pedal never changed and it still stops fine.

 

Recently replaced brake shoes?? Did you adjust them properly?? How far does your parking brake pedal travel before the brake works? No fluid loss and long pedal travel, sounds like the rear brake shoes are out of adjustment to me, especially if the parking brake lever travels a ways before the brakes hold. Easy to check as well.....

 

I just want to say I had great results with Module Master. Quick turn around and it fixed the ABS/Brake light issue.

 

I removed the brake drum today and the wheel cylinder is leaking fluid and won't move. I'm going to replace both sides tomorrow. Any quick tips? Anything else that I could replace while I'm in there that would save me time later down the road? The shoes are 6 months old. What about brake bleeding tips? It all seems rather easy, maybe just a little time consuming.

 

If you are replacing the wheel cylinders anyway.... why not go for an upgrade, and get the chevy 1 ton cylinders? (I think that is correct) They should be direct bolt in, and are larger diameter than the stockers, so, your back brakes are a bit more effective.

Drown the lines that go into the wheel cylinders with your penetrant of choice a day or so before you actually do the job. The nuts like to seize up on the lines, and when you pull 'em, the lines twist and break.

Have a friend help you bleed the brakes, or, get the valves designed for "one man bleeding"...... Draw as much fluid out of the Master Cylinder before you start, and refill with fresh fluid, flush the brakes until the fluid coming out runs nice and clean. DO NOT let the master cylinder go empty......

Might want to flush the old fluid out of the fronts while you are at it.