Hey guys. I know theres tons of posts but i want current up todate info and opinions on the HS 1.7 RR's to install on my 95 5.2L. How easy are they and the non adjustable ones are just bolt in bolt out right. 21 lbs on each bolt i believe. Wheres the best price on them too and how do they help the engine over stock. Thanks for your time and dont tell me about the million other posts to search. If thats what you want to say just leave the post. Thanks. PS I have every bolt on minus the mopar pcm which will be next and last.

 

So you alone are exempt from the dictates of good forum etiquette, and have the exclusive right to determine what may or may not be said by others in response to your questions? Did you buy this power? Were you born with it? Was it put to a vote? How do I elevate my humble self to your stature?

 

Honestly, the "million other posts" that you will find on this topic are going to say the same thing this one is going to say, but here you go anyway. Try not to be so lazy next time. The info is here already, you just have to search it and read.

-Install is very easy unless you are not mechnically inclined. Even then, it is not difficult by any means.
-Use some engine break-in oil on them when you install (on the fulcrum and on the roller). Some guys soak them the night before. I didn't.
-Don't drop your pushrods off the lifter down into the lifter valley or you'll be taking your intake manifold off to retreive them.
-Make sure the pushrod is centered correctly on the rocker arm dimple before you torque them down. You have to just kinda feel with your hand, or use a small mirror if you really want to see it. This is important though. If you are off that dimple, you could break the rocker, bend the pushrod, or worse have it go together seemingly ok until you fire up your truck. Again this is not anything hard, but just something you want to pay attention to to make sure you have it correct.
-You have to install them as a pair, so it is a little tricky to figure out how to hold them to do that. Once you figure it out though on the first set, the rest go really easy.
-I recommend installing them to specified torque, then after a few hundred miles or so, pop your valve covers off again and doublecheck the the torque one more time.
-Change your oil and filter after you install them.
-When you take your valve covers off, note that there is a ground wire connected to at least one of the bolts. Just make sure you get that put back on when you reinstall your valve covers.

They are a great modification.

 

it does it by amplifying the lift of the cam lobe.. if the cam lobe will generate lift of .350, using 1.5RR's will be one and one half of that, meaning the actual leverage on the valve stem will be .525.. 1.6= .560, 1.7= .595.. it doesn't have any real effect on duration though, just distance..

your stock 1.6 rockers will be replaced with rocker ROLLERS which glide while they 'pry' on the valves much easier than the metal to metal 'unassisted' pivot.. which makes your engine work less to open and close the valves, and operate the valve train.. which means reducing parasitic loss of energy.. add to that the increased amount of a/f getting in and out due to wider valve opening entering/exiting the combustion chamber, and you get ponies..

the alternative is to swap cam shafts to achieve the same.. this is a cheap way out of doing that, while achieving similar results to using a slightly larger lobed cam.

imHo, THE limiting factor on these engines from stock is the cam.. there is no substitute for dropping in a better cam.. but on the fly, and on the cheap, this is a very nice mod which allows you to bump up about 20 horses for around $350 or so.. If you were to do a cam shaft upgrade- such as a 210 grind, you would be also buying at a minimum: springs, push rods, tappets (lifters), and have the PITA of installing it (which is dang tricky with the engine in the truck).. Of course, after dropping twice the RR's value, you'd have substantially more than the 20 or so horses the 1.7rr's will give you- like as much as fifty to seventy (because you can adjust for other factors such as duration when shopping cam grinds)- but w/o head work, and the ability to both suck in and expel the air/fuel, you would be building a far less reliable engine- a time bomb in fact, but much of that depends on how aggressive the chosen grind is and what else you've done to the engine to support the added flow..

I'm thinking that is pretty much a complete story as to why folks use higher ratio rockers, and why they use rolling rockers as opposed to conventional.

 

thanks guys. I figured. Yeah ill look on the site but i have multiple jobs and schooling to prepare for. Its a check on the fly deal you know. Guess ill slap them on. heard nothing but great reviews about them. thanks again. and... no cam until I just flat out build the engine when it needs to be. Trans is saying "look at me now..!"

 

Ebay bud. Theyve been BOGO for the last week now. This offer ends never but lasts forever. Thanks for smart*** remarks. You have failed to ignore the post if you felt the need to say that stuff. Its a forum. Meant for vehicle advice and chat. shouldnt have to find other peoples past question or curiosities but create my own and get educated on something I would like to know from an individual who has gone through or done themselves. If its a waste of your time. You obviously have to much time on your hands....Epic Fail

P.S. have a nice day and happy modding!

 

HAHAHA rough day Unreg?

 

..something. But hey thanks for stoping by

 

23 posts/threads below this one. LOL https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...cker-arms.html

 

Nah, it was actually a very good day. I just have this personal policy... that I cannot fully express just now without risking being accused of personally attacking the OP.