Well that was fun, broke the front two intake bolts off, got one out out with a little heat, PB blaster and rock and roll, Driver's side broke again, drilled it and tapped it it. I'm going the cheap route, reusing the stock plate with a Fel Pro gasket, RTV and new 3/4" bolts. I read where 3/4" bolts are even too long with the 1/4" plenum plate, mine worked fine on a stock plate after I used a bottom tap to clean the threads out. I ALWAYS run a tap through through every hole prior to re-assembly of anything, it's amazing how much crap is in there.
SS bolts going back in to bolt down the intake, TTY bolts are absolutely not needed here, never understood that.

 

Don't forget the lock-tite on the plenum bolts. You REALLY don't want them fellers comin' out.

 

No kidding, Red lock-tite and clean clean clean FTW

 

I used blue, but, the only difference is, blue is easier to take out. However, probably not something you are going to want/need to do more than once.

 

Had a leak on my intake install, front left corner. Used a shop vac to create a vacuum on the engine by sticking it in the oil fill hole, used smoke to find the leak and ultimately suck the RTV in the area where the leak was...All fixed. I always check before I button everything up. Most of the work I do is on my race engine, it's been decked, heads milled, after market Intake, so I always use RTV on the China walls. Only had two leaks after countless intake swaps/installs. Not good when they back you out of the staging lanes because they spotted a single drop of oil.

 

188k miles, 2001 5.9 Magnum



In between oil changes, the oil is dropping to the MIN line 2-3 times. No smoke visible from the tailpipe, no obvious leaks on engine. Also have the marble in a can noise when I go WOT. Aside from that the truck is perfect.

I removed the TB and looked down into the intake manifold, this looks fine right? I was parked on a driveway incline..




https://imgur.com/a/nRHSrCj - Video 1

https://imgur.com/a/Epu9XXE - Video 2

 

So when the front two bolts holding the manifold down break, do you need to get them out before you try to remove the manifold, or will it come off, and then you can remove them. I have a 99 1500 that I have tore down to replace the plate on the bottom of the manifold. The manifold is stuck! I cannot get it to budge. I have been working on it for hours trying painters 5 in 1 tools, putty knives, pry bars you name it. I am afraid I am going to break something. I am a bit paranoid about welding under the hood, because even though I have capped both the fuel rail connection and the fuel line, it still smells of gas. Any help would be great...

 

If I recall correctly the manifold should lift right up and out so long as the bolt heads are gone. Make sure all remaining bolts (with heads) are removed from further back along the manifold. Maybe you are missing one? It shouldnt be seized to the block but depending on age/miles it could be pretty dang stuck to the block valley.

 

All the bolts are out. The truck is 26 years old with 178K on it. It isn't a rust bucket. I figured it was probably stuck on the broken bolts. I have hosed them down with lots of liquid courage. I have also used a small air hammer on low pressure to vibrate them a bit. I still have had no joy. I have refrained from using the gas axe, because of the gas smell under the hood. I haven't wanted to get too crazy with it and brake something.

 

Sounds like it's barely broken in! You're wise to not go straight to beating it out. I'm wondering if the timing cover is somehow holding it up? It sits so close to it and near the tstat that maybe there's a slight interference?

I'm going off of memory so I may be missing something too.