Style? Stock is a morse type chain. Get a good double roller timing set. I got (i think) the SK brand from advance auto. .25 roller diameter. There are a few 'name brand' manufacturers out there though. Most anyone that makes cams will also make timing sets.....

 

Will The SK BRAND double roller set work with factory cam? Bolt in and replace?

This is the one i was looking at :

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...0&partid=23311

HUG 6442 on www.hughesengines.com



Shoot me a link for yours if you can find it. Im still looking cant find SK Brand.

 

Can't give you a direct link..... unfortunately, advance auto's site won't allow for that, but, is an S.A. Gear Performance Timing set. Part number on advances site is 78103. A third the price of the one you are looking at.....

 

Hey You! I checked out that part on Advanced Auto parts and it doesn't have ANY specs and one customer review saying that the chain came loose. Anyway Can you help me understand the difference between a double roller timing set and a single? Also why are some timing sets not for sell in smog state (basically only my stupid state of CA). Lastly, what the difference between the 3 holes in the sprocket vs 7 small ones all the way around: to make them universal? Sorry for picking your brain so much, just learning.

I wanted to do cam and rockers but since my engine is so old, I wanna ride it out till i drop a new crate motor in. Cant live without headers though

 

I am curious how his came 'loose'... mine went on very nicely, and I have had zero problems with it. (in fact, I consider it the BEST 'maintenance mod' I have done on the engine.

For double vs. single roller, a bicycle chain is an example of a single roller, two chains side by side would make a double roller. Basically, just a stronger, wider, chain. Then there is the morse style chain, that has no rollers at all..... just stacked links, and straight teeth in the crank and cam gears. These guys are prone to stretching, and have more friction than a roller chain.

The slots in the gears are for varying amounts of cam advance/retard. You can sorta 'tune' your power band with them. I just installed mine straight up, (stock setting) as some cams have 4* advance built in...... I don't know if ours do, but, I didn't wanna take the chance of annoying the PCM, and having to go back in there.

Pick all ya want. That's what I am here for.

 

Ok, Guys I wanna add this little thing here onto my Post. One thing that I know is as America gets fatter so does our drinks at fast food. I go to a Wendy's and get a small drink and its 32oz+. Well anyway All my cupholders in this dodge have ALWAYS broke. two 1/8" pieces of plastic to screw into. Anyway I machined up a piece of metal that looks like a C and a rectangle to bolt into. Heres some pics:





The only thing i had to really change was the cup holder clips into its bracket and since im mounting with studs going towards me and nuts on them i had to have a way to remove the cup holder. So i bent the metal tabs down to where they wont clip. I just wont pull the heck outta my cup holder when i open it up :P Just thought id put this up cause its bugged me for awhile (3 years) and I could never come up with any solution that would work for awhile untill now lol

 

Just Arrived:

EFX Rollpan to install
Felpro Valve Cover Gaskets
20 Red Anodized Valve Cover Bolts

Still waiting on:
Hughes Plenum Plate Repair kit
Throttle Body Gasket
E-Fan Mod Kit (w/ Aluminum Shroud)

This Project is sure going to be a weekend deal :P

Anyone who has done the plenum fix can you give me some advice on how to pop out my fuel injectors and move the fuel railing over without any problem? Do I need a U tool to pop them out? Going to do the Kegger Mod while I have the sucker out, as well as the Timing set. Anyone got any advice i should learn from so I dont repeat any mistake someone else has done?

 

Hit em with some compressed air, to blow all the crap out of where the injectors go into the intake, and then a little bit of oil, to lube them up nicely. Going to have to pry them out..... I levered on the fuel rail, but, mine is metal, not plastic...... they held on pretty tight.

 

HeyYou any tips on the timing chain? I dont need any Special tools it looks like in the service manual. Seems like the hardest part is getting to it. Is Replacing the timing set easier then replacing just the chain?

 

You wanna replace both gears, and the chain. Go with a good quality double roller setup. Last longer, and more accurate.

You might need a gear puller, to get the crank gear off, some do, some don't. I just grabbed and pulled on mine, and it slid right off. (with a bit of effort)

Getting TO it is a drag, changing it out is a breeze.