I talked to hemifever and he says it could have something to do with rocker adjustment, to distributor alignment to cam degree. So what can I check for there I know that I cannot adjust the timing with the distributor but is there's still a certain way it needs to be installed? I know for a fact that the cam is timed properly off the crank so what can I check in terms of cam degree?

 

Bring the crank to #1 TDC of the compression stroke.

Take off the distributor cap and look at the rotor versus the notch in the cam position sensor. There is a small notch in the cam sensor that should line up right where the #1 cylinder post is on the disty cap.

The rotor's left edge should just be reaching that notch. If the rotor is past or ahead of the notch too far, the spark can actually jump to a different terminal.

If you are off, pull the distributor and look down the hole at the notch in the top of the oil pump drive gear. That is where the blade in the bottom of the distributor sits.

at #1 tdc of the compression stroke, the notch on the top of the gear should be almost straight up and down, with a slight skew at the bottom toward the right. 11:30 & 5:30 on a clock face reference, or if you prefer, if you were to draw a straight line that extended from that notch, it would cross the first built on the intake manifold on the driver's side.



Pay no mind to the black sharpie mark, that's for something else. Look at the picture dead on and use the edge of the photo to judge the position of the notch.

If it isn't right, you need to move it to a different tooth with the cam's teeth until it is right. A heavy duty magnetic pick up tool works really well for this.

What you think might be that new cam bubbling and boiling at idle may be cross fire in the disty cap due to really bad fuel sync.

I did this accidentally on the stock cam once, and the headers got red hot from fuel burning in them instead of the cylinder. Get it fixed if thats the issue, it's bad news for the engine.

 

Need to use a volt meter on it. The center pin should be the signal return to the PCM. An analog meter works best. (the kind with a guage, not just a digital readout) You want somewhere in the neighborhood of 1 volt at idle, sweeping SMOOTHLY to greater than 3.5 volts at WOT. If the needle bounces around on its way up, replace the tps.

 

Did what you said aim4 does the same thing it almost seems like it's worse now actually

 

Also tried what you said heyyou and I wish I could tell u what the readings where but they were so erratic I can't even venture a quess at idle it seemed to be between 6 and 6.5 volts and at any other throttle position it just read anything it felt like it was all over the place I just did replace the TPS a few months ago tho

 

Sounds like the new one took a dump...... voltages are way to high...... shouldn't ever see anything over 5 volts......

 

Replaced the TPS and I'm having the same problems I also smell alot if fuel in the exhaust and it blows some black smoke if I gas it

 

If it only does it after it warms up a little, chances are good the O2 sensor is going south. If it does it ALL the time, I would have a look at the engine coolant temp sensor.

 

Does it all the time and coolant gauge reads normal no hotter then 190-195 with a 180 stat and the code reader reads out the same coolant temp

 

Was that a small base circle cam that you installed?