Help!
#1
Help!
Ok so I have a '99 Ram 1500 5.9 360. I was having problems with oil loss and no leak and a bad vibration over 40mph and a gross evap code and cyl 8 misfire code. Did some research and about a month ago replaced the plenum gasket, rotor & cap, plugs and wires changed my fuel cap and recharged my AC. Also replaced my number 8 fuel injector. My truck ran amazing for about 3 weeks.
Now I am having multiple problems again. The gross evap code is back, my AC seems like it has an upset stomach, It has a really bad gurgle sound to it. I have a really bad ticking noise coming from what seems like the cyl 3/5 area of my engine and I am losing oil again with no leak.
The ticking noise is only on acceleration/under load, I read another forum that suggests that is a exhaust leak but it seems to be coming more from my head than from my exhaust. I am pretty stumped and frustrated at this point. Please help.
Now I am having multiple problems again. The gross evap code is back, my AC seems like it has an upset stomach, It has a really bad gurgle sound to it. I have a really bad ticking noise coming from what seems like the cyl 3/5 area of my engine and I am losing oil again with no leak.
The ticking noise is only on acceleration/under load, I read another forum that suggests that is a exhaust leak but it seems to be coming more from my head than from my exhaust. I am pretty stumped and frustrated at this point. Please help.
#2
Welcome to DF.
Did you just replace the gasket on the steel pan, and put it back in?
The gurgle is probably the heater core. Thoroughly burp your cooling system. (yes, they are a major pain to get all the air out of.)
Check the vacuum lines for the evap system. they are know to rot, and crack, especially back by the canister. (should be under the cab on the passenger side on your truck.) Also, check and see if you don't have a bunch of carbon granules in the vacuum lines..... that would mean the canister is toast.
There is a TSB for plug wire routing in the FAQ section here. Might wanna do that, and see if your ticking goes away. That said, an exhaust leak, and a leaky plug wire (that allows the spark to hit the engine somewhere, instead of at the plug) sound pretty similar.
Have you checked your cat, to see if it didn't get plugged up by all the oil burning?
Did you replace the pre-cat O2 sensor? (they don't like burned oil either)
Have you changed your PCV valve? (do NOT use an aftermarket valve, they suck. Literally, get one from the dealer, they are like 8 bucks, and actually have the correct flow rate.)
Valve covers like to leak at the rear of the engine. They won't necessary leave spots on the driveway either.
Did you just replace the gasket on the steel pan, and put it back in?
The gurgle is probably the heater core. Thoroughly burp your cooling system. (yes, they are a major pain to get all the air out of.)
Check the vacuum lines for the evap system. they are know to rot, and crack, especially back by the canister. (should be under the cab on the passenger side on your truck.) Also, check and see if you don't have a bunch of carbon granules in the vacuum lines..... that would mean the canister is toast.
There is a TSB for plug wire routing in the FAQ section here. Might wanna do that, and see if your ticking goes away. That said, an exhaust leak, and a leaky plug wire (that allows the spark to hit the engine somewhere, instead of at the plug) sound pretty similar.
Have you checked your cat, to see if it didn't get plugged up by all the oil burning?
Did you replace the pre-cat O2 sensor? (they don't like burned oil either)
Have you changed your PCV valve? (do NOT use an aftermarket valve, they suck. Literally, get one from the dealer, they are like 8 bucks, and actually have the correct flow rate.)
Valve covers like to leak at the rear of the engine. They won't necessary leave spots on the driveway either.
#3
Yeah I did just replace it with the steel pan, I use my truck for work and had to get it back together asap. My wife who did all the research for me tried convincing me like 10 times to wait and get a alum pan but I didn't.
I am not sure how to burp the cooling system.
I have checked the vacuum lines and everything seems to be good minus one dry rotted piece on the top of the canister. I will replace that.
My cat is welded shut and I am not sure how to check it. I was going to replace it and the O2 sensors but my truck was running good so I didn't really worry about it too much after that. Probably need to do that. Thanks for all your help I will look into those things for sure.
I am not sure how to burp the cooling system.
I have checked the vacuum lines and everything seems to be good minus one dry rotted piece on the top of the canister. I will replace that.
My cat is welded shut and I am not sure how to check it. I was going to replace it and the O2 sensors but my truck was running good so I didn't really worry about it too much after that. Probably need to do that. Thanks for all your help I will look into those things for sure.
#4
Look in the FAQ section for burping the cooling system. As far as the cat goes, if it rattles when you wrap on it, it's bad. Or , take it to a muffler shop, they will remove the o2 sensor and check the back pressure with a gauge. If the plenum was blown, the cat is bad. Leave it , and you will end up with cracked heads. And if you didn't cut the bolts shorter for the pan, it won't be long before you are doing the job again.
#5
Replaced the CAT still have a bad rattling noise on driver side of engine. It sounds like a bike tire hitting trading cards with its spokes. I had someone tell me it could be a push rod bearing going out and I need a new engine. Has anyone else had this problem? As for the AC I couldn't find in the FAQ section about burping your AC could you possible post a link to it. Thanks.
#7
Ok so I replaced the cat burped the cooling system and everything is good minus the rattle I have. Went to a trusted mechanic and he said it is for sure one of my push rod bearings. He said the cheapest way to fix it is to buy a rebuilt engine and drop it in. I found a pretty cheap 5.2L. Will the 5.2 bolt up to the 5.9 mounts and will everything work properly or will I have to do other mods to make the smaller engine compatible?
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#8
There are no such things as push rod bearings, how about connecting rod bearings. Has a compression test been done on this motor? If not start there and get back with the numbers. This could be as easy as lifters, new rockers. Pull the valve covers and check over all the rockers for play, you will have to turn the motor over by hand to check all the rockers when each one is relaxed. The bottom end of these motors are tough you might just need new heads.
Last edited by merc225hp; 09-20-2011 at 06:54 PM. Reason: spelling