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Please help

Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:15 PM
  #111  
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How are you testing for comp?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #112  
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cranking the motor over! it just sits there and sounds like i pulled all the plugs out n tried to start it. and when i spin the motor over with the #1 plug out it dosent blow my finger out of the hole. i dont know what else to do
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:27 PM
  #113  
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i had to have bent somthing there is no other F**king way to time this motor
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:35 PM
  #114  
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and zman said there spin free motors. so what else could have went wrong to cause loss of compression
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:52 PM
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Have you checked the other cyld for comp? If you think you have bent something then lets do this test, pull the drivers side valve cover, relax the rocker arms on cyld 1 ,remove the push rods for that cyld, next turn the motor over and see if that cyld has comp. If it does then you are still out of time, if it does not then something is bent broke or cracked.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:55 PM
  #116  
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should it have compression when you spin the motor with the timing chain still on it? even if its off timing? and i even put the old chain back on the motor and the timing spots were in the same spots....
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:57 PM
  #117  
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It all depends on just when the valves are opening. It is possible to have zero compression with everything assembled. The only way that happens on every cylinder though, is the cam has to be out of time with the crank.

Where are you at?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by 71dodge
should it have compression when you spin the motor with the timing chain still on it? even if its off timing? and i even put the old chain back on the motor and the timing spots were in the same spots....

Leave everything alone till you have done the last test I posted.

I will be on and off of the forum for the night. Please do the test and post back.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:01 PM
  #119  
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i set the cam gear at 12 oclock. witch i thought was wrong because i thought it should be a 6 and the crank at 12. i set them both at 12 and everything lined up PERFECT everything was all in line matched up everythign went to fire it and nothing
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:20 PM
  #120  
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Here is my last ditch effort. Or opinion

Take the gears and chain OFF, Install the crank gear, install the TC cover, (temporarily with a couple bolts)Install the balancer pulley and rotate the crank with the #1 spark plug out , Using a piece of wire make sure the piston is traveling UP. until the balancer is pointing to the TDC mark on the TC cover(and don't move the crank). At this point, the dot on the crank gear should be pointing to 12 oclock. Rotate slightly left or right to get it at 12 oclock. Now, Remove the cover, and install the cam bolt. Rotate the cam and follow these directions to a T.


remove the valve cover on the driver side, rotate the cam until you see the intake valve, which is the SECOND valve spring, begin to compress. When I say compress, this means the valve spring is opening the valve. As the valve spring begins to close, That's TDC for the valve train. Install the cam gear, if it's a little off, turn it left or right ONLY slighly to put the dot or arrow at 12 oclock. NOW, check to see where the rotor is pointing. If it 's pointing to the #1 on the distributor cap. Remove both gears and install the chain on them, and put them back on.

If this doesn't help, I don't know what to say any more.
 
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