It's in the service manual at any rate.... Grab one from the FAQ section here.

Bad IAC won't cause No Bus. CPS wires pinched just might. Also, the crank sensor is a common victim when the trans is R&Red....

 

Where exactly is the cps located? Can I see it if I lay under the truck? Also where would a pinched cps wire be located? can I see if it's pinched or do I have to feel for it?

Would a bad rear abs/speed sensor cause no bus?

When my truck will start and idle if I push on what I think is the tps (gray sensor on driver side of tb) it surges up and down for about 15 seconds then settles down. Is that normal or is the tps bad? I only have a digital volt meter so I can't test the tps.

A lot of questions I know but I just want my truck to run reliably again! This starting only when it feels like it is really pissing me off!

 

WHen it doesnt wanna start, if you step on the gas a bit, will it?

There may be a TPS issue there, sure wouldn't hurt to test it.

Cam position sensor is in the distributor.

Crank Position sensor is in the belhousing, right at the back of the motor, passenger side. I doubt you will be able to see it from underneath... best bet is to go over the top of the motor, and use a mirror to find it. Take it from there.

 

This morning it would start and idle high for a few seconds like normal then when it drops to normal idle speed it dies. I couldn't keep it running with throttle pressed this morning.

Let me clarify what I mean. It always starts and runs for a few seconds but when the rpm drop to normal idle speed it dies. It will do this at completely random times. Sometimes it idles fine sometimes it won't.

I reset the computer by pulling the negative battery cable for 5 minutes. After I hooked it back up and started the truck it stumbled like it was going to die for a couple seconds then smoothed out and idled fine. Is that a clue to anything?

I asked about the rear speed sensor in my earlier post because the abs and brake light are on permanently now even came back on after a computer reset.

 

If you don't have 4wal, rear wheel speed sensor is a pretty good bet for the lights.

Have you tried swapping the ASD relay, for the horn relay, and see if the problem doesn't go away?

 

I have wires coming from each front wheel so I'm pretty sure it's 4wl abs. I have not tried switching relays. I will swap them and see what happens. That will just possibly fix the light issue right?

 

ASD relay is where the coil, and injectors get power from. If it is weak/malfunctioning, at idle, it may not have the nads to hold the relay closed, as soon as it pops open, your truck will quit running. It's worth a shot anyway.

Since you seem to have 4wal, I would have the ABS codes read somewhere..... the average parts store probably can't, or won't..... do it. Might have to take it to a shop. There is a LOT more to go wrong on the 4wal systems.... best to find out exactly what it thinks the problem is, before throwing too much money at parts you don't really need. Check all the connections for the various sensors first though..... (three of 'em, two front, one rear). See if it isn't something obvious.

 

I pulled the iac and reset the computer then turned the key and the iac flew apart! The little piston part flew off. I replaced the iac and tps and now it idles great! I replaced the tps because when I took it off I could feel the spring inside moving around kinda like a blown light bulb and the new one feels solid