Nah, the only thing in the plenum, is hopefully, air... The injectors spray directly on backside of a hot valve..

The inside of that intake doesn't have to be spotless.. the ports, though, if it were mine I would hit them with a fine grinder, and wiping them out with alcohol.. I don't know what mother mopar was thinking... Those surfaces are rough there, and so are the runners mouth..

Gasket match those intake gasket FTW..

 

I was told the rough surface was a benefit and polished runners could hurt fuel atomization.... I believe this is mentioned in the kegger DIY too...

here's something I just found on it with google...
http://ramchargercentral.com/engine/...olishing/?wap2

 

I don't see the logic in that, but I'm not a physicist either..

 

I can see it.... If the surface area is rough it creates turbulance at the wall surface that acts as a buffer helps prevent fuel from sticking to runner walls... I know I've read it before in a number of places..

 

The injector is pointed into the head port.. the intake port isn't in the mix.. the head port length is pretty dang short, so as the fuel injected damn near sprays directly on the back of a hot valve, which is designed such that the heat on that valve atomizes the fuel.. which is why better injectors are benefited by slight adjustments in fuel sync, as that valve isn't needed so much.. but either way, the intake runner isn't in play with the injection process as the injection is at the port of the head/intake and not back up inside the runner.. turbulence there is no good..

 

No i haven't checked it again yet. I will when i get it all back together.

As far as cleaning it. Ill do what i can with what i have i guess.

@drewactual: what do you mean "Gasket match those intake gasket FTW.."

 

For the win..

Gasket matching is an old tried and true method to get more flow.. each 10cfm you add through an engine is an extra pony.. you can get ten per cylinder easily by matching.. that's eight free ponies for half an hour of work.

 

Put a gasket on the intake manifold, and mark the exposed metal.. do same thing with same gasket to head port.. break out the grinder and have at it.. rid the exposed metal and smooth out the bends.. that gasket/head port/intake manifold port would then be married and matched..

Don't do the head ports unless the heads are off and you can clean the shards out.. shards in cylinders are a terrible thing... If the heads are off, you can easily grind out 10cfm per port, and maybe as much as 25cfm per.. that's 2.5 ponies per cylinder, and 40 more from the engine.. all for a little grinding with a steady hand and great big brass *****.

 

Is this what you are talking about?

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0703.../photo_06.html

Edit: ah yes i see. I dont have the tools to do that this time though. But if i did i would.

 

Yup.. but that link (what I could see, I'm on the mobile right now) appeared to be the whole gambit, including bowl blending, which is another tried and true trick..