Well, I got 135,000 on the clock. Those numbers are from doing it dry as I change the plugs. It runs good and nothing seems to abnormal. But, makes me wonder how good the motor is after seeing OP's numbers.

Maybe I'm just being paranoid.

 

Yeah, I have considered that. My pressure stays pretty high (by the dash gauge of course) so I'll probably just go with the OEM style pump. Hopefully when I pull the inspection plate I'll find something even easier that's causing my noise.

 

Best bet would be to do a cylinder leak down test. Requires a cool gauge set, and an inexhaustible source of compressed air... but, it not only tells you what condition your cylinders are in, it also tells you where the problem is.

 

Dry test, didn't see any point in doing the wet test....again

 

If you're sure that area is where the rock concert originates, that's one thing- and I'll shut up.. but..

I learned through mistakes that oil, oil volume, and oil pressure are pretty important.. I mean, if you run it low the effects are obvious, but there are issues when you run too much oil too..

Too much oil in an engine makes a nice froth.. that makes all kinds of things go ticky-ticky.. lifters can't charge on air infused oil.. little bubbles gettin into the little gaps hard parts rely on to be wet make weird things happen..

It's way to easy to over fill these things, because you drop plug, drain, and refill with the prescribed amount.. but, are you sure you got out as much as you put in? It can happen way too easy in my opinion.. air bubbles in oil is inevitable when there is too much in there, and air bubbles in oil doesn't lubricate, doesn't flow, and compresses..

Anyway, sorry for the tangent.. its just something to think about while you're doing what you're doing..

 

well...I removed the starter, inspection plate and didn't find anything noticeably amiss. All bolts were good and tight on the flexplate and all of the teeth looked good, no shiny spots, no damage.

So, I warmed the engine up...since it makes no noise at all when cold. The noise is still there but I'm going to re-classify it now as a rattle. It hasn't changed tone or speed but when I was calling it a knock I was probably giving it too much credit. It's totally random at idle, if existent at all. At 1500-2000+ it is a more steady rattle. I'm hesitant at this point to go through the trouble of dropping the pan until I have more evidence. Wouldn't I hear a more distinct noise(knock) at more frequent rpm's and be able to hear it from the top of the motor too if it was a bad bearing?

 

If I were you. I'd check out ALL the pulleys on the front of the motor.

 

DAMN nice call Zdude.. I've seen crank pulleys lose balance due to the nylon bushings being worn (And, when it starts, it sounds like a knock), and graduate over time to a nice jiggle (and subsequent rattle)..

 

what's a good test for the crank pulley? I swear this noise sounds like it's at the rear half of the oil pan. I can only pinpoint when I am laying under the truck with my head right under that area. I hear nothing when revving the engine from under the hood using the linkage...everything looks and sounds normal up there. No apparent wobble or noise coming from the balancer/crank pulley.

It actually sounds like it is originating from right where the oil pump would be. Is there anything in the oil pump, bearings or otherwise, that would make that sort of noise? It does increase speed with rpms, but is kinda random-ish...I don't know, its hard to explain. Is it possible to have a flaky oil pump but still maintain good pressure? I know, I know....i need to check it with an 'analog' gauge and not use the dash gauge, but until then....

 

Not the cat rattling is it?

No bearings in the oil pump. Bushings. If it is the pump making the noise, you wanna change that feller out RIGHT QUICK. Oil pump is a LOT cheaper than a new motor.

To check pulleys, take the belt off, and give 'em all a spin. If they feel rough, or loose, time to deal with 'em.