Cam change in progress w/pics.
#122
if your going or have already yanked the motor. Why not go to 408. you can honestly do it alot cheaper then those kits. Get a cast crank for around 300 bucks, and if you get stock bore forged pistons for around 400(go with forged b/c they require a slightly larger bore then cast). Just keep the stock rods, as they are forged.
as long as your not trying to make 500hp or something crazy like that, you'll be fine.
as long as your not trying to make 500hp or something crazy like that, you'll be fine.
Plus you will need 170 dollars in gaskets
Another 150 dollars in fasteners (I would not reuse rod bolts, and would upgrade to ARPs)
New mains
Re-hone bore
Piston rings
Injectors (You WILL need bigger ones)
Custom Tune
Throttle Body
Custom exhaust to get the potential of the gains.
about 2 months of downtime
So you are looking at about 4 grand with doing a 408 plus a lot of begging friends to help you.
Last edited by CPTAFW163; 01-21-2012 at 11:43 AM.
#123
Break in period done. Swapped over to Mobil 1.
Then a squirrel seems to have shown up, but isn't visible. Sound got progressively consistent but hard to pin down. Seemed mostly driver side....tick tick tick tick
Upon discussions with my mentor Merc225hp, it was plausible that lifter oiling holes not up. It was a late night when I dropped those in like candy. So it was decided to open the rager back up.
First review of rockers seemed fine. All had oil on them, which indicated oil coming up through pushrods. So the oiling holes of the lifters...may not be bad. No bad valve springs. No bad pushrods.
Proceeded and reviewed the lifters. After the 6th one I came upon my first lifter not oriented right. By the end, total of 5 lifters were oiling down. So that teardown and fix was last night.
Tonight...whipped it all back together. Fired right back up. Ran it for about 10-15 mins total. Ticking still there, although seems like its the lifters doing it. I've read and heard that this isn't too uncommon.
So gonna see how this goes the next few days.
Well, now I know how fast I can do this effort. lol
If you got any input, then by all means shoot it.
ps. I will be checking for exhaust leaks though. I do have one post cat, pre muffler. It's a sleeve. So gotta run seafoam and get more definitive.
pps. Also got a 2" spacer to get my KN tube back on. Need a longer bolt now though.
Then a squirrel seems to have shown up, but isn't visible. Sound got progressively consistent but hard to pin down. Seemed mostly driver side....tick tick tick tick
Upon discussions with my mentor Merc225hp, it was plausible that lifter oiling holes not up. It was a late night when I dropped those in like candy. So it was decided to open the rager back up.
First review of rockers seemed fine. All had oil on them, which indicated oil coming up through pushrods. So the oiling holes of the lifters...may not be bad. No bad valve springs. No bad pushrods.
Proceeded and reviewed the lifters. After the 6th one I came upon my first lifter not oriented right. By the end, total of 5 lifters were oiling down. So that teardown and fix was last night.
Tonight...whipped it all back together. Fired right back up. Ran it for about 10-15 mins total. Ticking still there, although seems like its the lifters doing it. I've read and heard that this isn't too uncommon.
So gonna see how this goes the next few days.
Well, now I know how fast I can do this effort. lol
If you got any input, then by all means shoot it.
ps. I will be checking for exhaust leaks though. I do have one post cat, pre muffler. It's a sleeve. So gotta run seafoam and get more definitive.
pps. Also got a 2" spacer to get my KN tube back on. Need a longer bolt now though.
#124
Did you reuse lifters by chance? If you did, how many miles on the old ones?
It's not uncommon for reused lifters to tick. The travel of the push rod cup in the lifter bore will be different with a non stock cam. They tend to wear a small groovein the inner bore. The new travel of the cam usually doesn't match the old travel pattern, and a few 100 miles of travel may break them in and cease the ticking.
Also check for exhaust leaks if you had any reason to remove a head
It's not uncommon for reused lifters to tick. The travel of the push rod cup in the lifter bore will be different with a non stock cam. They tend to wear a small groovein the inner bore. The new travel of the cam usually doesn't match the old travel pattern, and a few 100 miles of travel may break them in and cease the ticking.
Also check for exhaust leaks if you had any reason to remove a head
Last edited by aim4squirrels; 02-01-2012 at 08:09 AM.
#125
#126
#127
Lolz. You've been biding your time to drop that one.
Drove into work this morning. It's long enough to get to NOT <-- normal operation temperature.
Tick is gone......!!!!
Patience is learned not yet this one.
Here is a sample picture of a lifter right and wrong with respect to oiling hole. This is cylinder 4.
Will keep progress posted for you cool mugs.
Thanks for chiming in aim and HY. I do appreciate it. The dino oil is not outside of consideration either.
Drove into work this morning. It's long enough to get to NOT <-- normal operation temperature.
Tick is gone......!!!!
Patience is learned not yet this one.
Here is a sample picture of a lifter right and wrong with respect to oiling hole. This is cylinder 4.
Will keep progress posted for you cool mugs.
Thanks for chiming in aim and HY. I do appreciate it. The dino oil is not outside of consideration either.
#128
I'll wager your new lifters installed incorrectly was your problem.
Now, if your push rods are contacting the guide plates, I'd get that corrected asap. Contact should only occur if a lifter is deflated due to prolonged lack of running the engine. They are there to keep the push rod in line while the engine pumps up the lifter. They should not be touching on a fully inflated lifter.
Now, if your push rods are contacting the guide plates, I'd get that corrected asap. Contact should only occur if a lifter is deflated due to prolonged lack of running the engine. They are there to keep the push rod in line while the engine pumps up the lifter. They should not be touching on a fully inflated lifter.
Last edited by aim4squirrels; 02-01-2012 at 11:05 AM.
#130