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changed header gasket now no start

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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 06:44 PM
  #151  
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yes it would, but to get the cover off is a PITA. have to move alot of stuff out of the way.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 06:44 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by BackwoodsRam
well i bought this truck at 155k so i have no idea if the chian was replaced at any point. and if it is the original chain at 184k then its bound to be pretty loose. if i can bum a ride to the parts store before it closes i may grab everything needed to swap the chain and do it anyways. wouldnt it be pretty easy to see if the cam and crank sprokets were off with the cover off?
If no chain replacement before now, then you'll have slop.

I'd recommend forgetting the parts shop and just get to disassembly, then create your parts list. There is always something that pops up.

When tcover is off, follow the directions for timing. There is a dot on the cam gear and on the crank gear.

TDC #1 is: cam gear dot 6 oclock, crank gear 12 oclock
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 06:45 PM
  #153  
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it doesnt take long to get all the acessory stuf out of the way. and i planned on grabing the H/B puller
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 06:47 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle
If no chain replacement before now, then you'll have slop.

I'd recommend forgetting the parts shop and just get to disassembly, then create your parts list. There is always something that pops up.

When tcover is off, follow the directions for timing. There is a dot on the cam gear and on the crank gear.

TDC #1 is: cam gear dot 6 oclock, crank gear 12 oclock

so the dots should be facing each other? and i need to grab the H/B puller anyways
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #155  
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if you jumped timing, you can toss the dots out the window.. you're going to need to find cylinder one top dead center (tdc) dead between the compression and power stroke (1).. or, 1-TDC/1.. you're going to use the keys on the sprocket to help you out with the cam..

oh the hell with it..

there is instructions a lot better than I can give in the FAQ section, and in the manuals..

edit:

duh.. the gears/sprockets are ticked, and they are keyed.. line them up with #1TDC/1
 

Last edited by drewactual; Jan 23, 2012 at 06:58 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 07:00 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by drewactual
if you jumped timing, you can toss the dots out the window.. you're going to need to find cylinder one top dead center (tdc) dead between the compression and power stroke (1).. or, 1-TDC/1.. you're going to use the keys on the sprocket to help you out with the cam..

oh the hell with it..

there is instructions a lot better than I can give in the FAQ section, and in the manuals..
well i figured id set the H/B at #1 TDC before i pulled the cover off, then shouldnt the marks line up? i also printed up how to set themarks off of the service manual
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 07:01 PM
  #157  
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yup.. I corrected myself.. you is right.. just make sure you have #1 at TDC/1..

edit: which means both valves are closed, and the piston is at the absolute top.. the cam and the crank won't do the figuring for you with the chain off.. you gotta do the valve timing yourself.. both valves closed at TDC, when it reaches BDC, the exhaust valve opens... ect.. TDC happens twice, as the cam turns at twice the speed of the crank.. you're going to want to line them up at 0*, not 180*.. 180* is BAD.. and, you may be the one to answer the interference question if you screw it up..

edited again.. I'm as screwed up as hogans goat, and need to shut up.. the cam turns at HALF the speed of the crank.. still, 180* off is bad..
 

Last edited by drewactual; Jan 23, 2012 at 07:10 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 07:07 PM
  #158  
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if timing has jumpped would it be better to turn the cam or crank to get timiming back in order? im thinking cam but i may be wrong
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 07:09 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle
Here are some pictures. In addition, on the cap #1 is marked.

Yellow box denotes the TDC 1 mark.




Timing Cover -- Use the h/b cut mark to point. You'll see graduation marks.

Adding to the above pictures for completeness so you can see what the infamous "dots" of timing hell look like.

Notice the marks on the H/B. The cut line is timing mark. The 2nd dot to the left, ignore that.

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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 07:13 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by drewactual
yup.. I corrected myself.. you is right.. just make sure you have #1 at TDC/1..

edit: which means both valves are closed, and the piston is at the absolute top.. the cam and the crank won't do the figuring for you with the chain off.. you gotta do the valve timing yourself.. both valves closed at TDC, when it reaches BDC, the exhaust valve opens... ect.. TDC happens twice, as the cam turns at twice the speed of the crank.. you're going to want to line them up at 0*, not 180*.. 180* is BAD.. and, you may be the one to answer the interference question if you screw it up..

edited again.. I'm as screwed up as hogans goat, and need to shut up.. the cam turns at HALF the speed of the crank.. still, 180* off is bad..
The interference has been answered. Being out 180* is not bad. Just means it won't fire. Ask me how I know. It's in a video for public pride.
 
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