so im pulling a valve cover no matter what. and nobody awnsered if i should turn thr cam or the crank to line everthing back up if timing is off

 

Turn the crank you pansy. Use a 1.25" (iirc) socket on a breaker bar.

 

Let me rephrase.

1. Turn the crank to check everything.

2. If something is off, such as cam gear off with rotor, intake valve on compression, etc.

3. Get the crank at the TDC 1 position.

4. Remove old chain, go through installation of new chain.

5. Recheck everything for TDC #1 using the intake valve compression as confirmation.

 

don't go spinning either one of them like it's cool.. we're going to cross our fingers you don't have to turn them hardly at all.. if you give them a spin like that big wheel on the price is right, your fuel sync is gone to hell in a hand basket.. let's try to keep it close enough to get you somewhere that can set it for you.. specifically, the cam..

 

Are you getting spark AT the plugs? Got fuel pressure? (checked with gauge?) Got injector pulse?

 

Well valve timing was dead nuts on(yes I pulled the valve cover and verified compression stroke)......any more wild guesses lol.

 

I have blue spark at the plugs(that's how i've been checking it), I have injector pulse (verified with a light), and I haven't been able to verify fuel pressure but I know i'm getting plenty of fuel. The motor keeps on flooding out and if I try to crank it for more than a minute then the fuel smell is so strong that it is sickening

Edit: and all of the plugs keep getting gas fouled (champion stocker brand)

 

Check the connection at the coolant temp sensor, verify it is clean, and tight.

Once it drys out (again...) Stomp the gas pedal to the floor, and HOLD it there while cranking. See if it wants to start...... or at least comes closer.

What I think is happening is the PCM is seeing engine temp as -40*, so, it is DUMPING gas trying to get enough in there to start. Holding the pedal on the floor should... put the PCM in clear-flood mode, and it drastically cuts back on gas......)

 

I've already tried that. A few months ago I had an issue with my ECT that caused a no start.that connection is one of the first things I checked. After the new crank sensor it would attempt to fire at WOT but that's about it

Edit: maybe I got a bad crank sensor, or I need a new cam sensor

 

Check the connections at both ends.... at the sensor, and at the PCM...... make sure you are getting voltage to the sensor, and some flavor of signal back out. (not sure what the resistance should be for whatever temp... but, I am sure there is a chart out there on the web somewhere.

I don't think the IAT can have that profound of an effect on mixture, but, it might be worth checking as well.

So far as I know, unless you have a dead short on some of your injectors, the ECT sensor is about the only thing that should give the symptoms you are reporting. Should be.........