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changed header gasket now no start

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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 10:46 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by fargo39
you said you had power at the injectors?do you have a ground pulse when you turn the engine over? if you don't have a noid light 'injector light' a simple way to check if the injector is firing is take a 194 bulb,marker light bulb bend the wires out. unplug a injector,push the two wires from the bulb into the plug and turn the engine over. see if the bulb flashes. a led test light works good for testing injectors and with a led test light you can see if you have a ground pulse at the coil. could save you time running to the junk yard.
What exactly does the injectors have to do with the lack of spark voltage to the ignition coil? Do they somehow share voltage or signal?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 10:13 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Augiedoggy
What exactly does the injectors have to do with the lack of spark voltage to the ignition coil? Do they somehow share voltage or signal?
Coil and injectors both get power from the ASD relay.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 11:28 AM
  #53  
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last post said he had lost spark.checking the injector pulse at all cyls then checking for a ground pulse at the coil would eliminate a bad pcm and lean toward a bad coil. if only a few cyl. firing could be a bad quad driver in the pcm.more than once i had seen a bad dist cap that only a month old cause a no start, rough running condition. a bad rotor with high resistance can cause a lot of troubles as well. i would try a coil myself they seem to be the weak link and replaced a few of them.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #54  
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^I think that is sound advice.

I'd opt for a quick simple looksee, just in case, if not done already:

Pull all the wires, pull the cap, then re-install according to the following posts:

Fire order with respect to the cap

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2696755-post4.html

Wire Routing

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...lug-wires.html

I'm recommending this as it can be difficult to get it right on the cap in addition to seating the plug ends due to access behind the Keg. Especially if you have sausage fingers....
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 11:37 AM
  #55  
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Check the cam and crank sensor wires/plugs as well. They are on the driver side. Also make sure the 2 ground wires that go to the bolt near the PS pump are still intact.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 12:29 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle
^I think that is sound advice.

I'd opt for a quick simple looksee, just in case, if not done already:

Pull all the wires, pull the cap, then re-install according to the following posts:

Fire order with respect to the cap

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2696755-post4.html

Wire Routing

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...lug-wires.html

I'm recommending this as it can be difficult to get it right on the cap in addition to seating the plug ends due to access behind the Keg. Especially if you have sausage fingers....


quad checked these, but I'll do it one more time for ****s and giggles
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 12:30 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by zman17
Check the cam and crank sensor wires/plugs as well. They are on the driver side. Also make sure the 2 ground wires that go to the bolt near the PS pump are still intact.
All of these are good to go
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 12:32 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by fargo39
you said you had power at the injectors?do you have a ground pulse when you turn the engine over? if you don't have a noid light 'injector light' a simple way to check if the injector is firing is take a 194 bulb,marker light bulb bend the wires out. unplug a injector,push the two wires from the bulb into the plug and turn the engine over. see if the bulb flashes. a led test light works good for testing injectors and with a led test light you can see if you have a ground pulse at the coil. could save you time running to the junk yard.
Will a regular test light work or does it have to be LED.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 12:57 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by BackwoodsRam
Will a regular test light work or does it have to be LED.
I think so. But you need 2 people. I used a multimeter. I found out that the noid light sets at the parts stores did not have a Chrysler one OR the dudes just don't know what will work for our injectors.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 01:32 PM
  #60  
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a regular test light will work just hook the test light to the positive side of battery. i use a small cotter pin straighten out and push into the terminal.if your by yourself you can attach the clip side to the pin and the tip of the test light to the battery.using a cotter pin wont ruin the plug as well
 
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