hard cold start & surges/ bucks while trying maintain speed
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plugs champion copper plus # 436 , autolite profess. # 96634 Wires are routed like stated in TSB. Brand new thermo. 185 degree. temp guage never goes past half. seems accurate. i did relize my radiator cap is leaking now.. need to replace.. other then that.. i have no idea,..
I think i did fix the cold start issue with taking out IAC spraying the S*** out of it with brake cleaner & then disconnect of the neg cable on the battery turned key forward for 5 min re-connected and it started perfect. cold idle was around 900+/- 50rpm. Now my gas guage i dont think is reading proper or i used that much gas earlier trying to figure these Problems out. cuz it dont even move when u turn the key on. have to go to the gas station and test drive to see maybe if the other problem might be resolved..
I think i did fix the cold start issue with taking out IAC spraying the S*** out of it with brake cleaner & then disconnect of the neg cable on the battery turned key forward for 5 min re-connected and it started perfect. cold idle was around 900+/- 50rpm. Now my gas guage i dont think is reading proper or i used that much gas earlier trying to figure these Problems out. cuz it dont even move when u turn the key on. have to go to the gas station and test drive to see maybe if the other problem might be resolved..
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I had the same symptoms as you and changing out my ignition coil (and waiting for the computer to adjust) fixed it. Although these symptoms can be universal to a few things, I'd also at least do a visual inspection, and if you get the multi meter test it as well. I figured mine was bad because the metal "plates" on the coil were bending by themselves...And I also had a blown plenum at the time which I'm sure contributed to it.
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i took it for a drive today. cold start not a problem anymore. idles right and sounds good. once warm and driving after a few mins it starts the bucking sensation again, and also sounds like backfiring inside the motor. and u can hear it in the exhaust. i did take it to advance and scanned it and verified no codes. the symtoms are from like 20mph progressively worse till 45-55 where its worse then after 60 you dont really feel it anymore or hear it.at an idle u can hear it missing orsomething because u can hear the engine drop a few rpms every other second or so and can hear a slight/small backfire when at idle. i was wondering if it could be timing an issue too. cuz a few years ago. a shop did hook a scanner to the truck and rotated the distributor. after i think they said they put it back timing to zero.. thats when they where trying to fix the spark knock issue then. which was unsuccessful.
Last edited by brian1986; 01-23-2012 at 04:22 PM. Reason: idle conditions
#20
as for this i think it is still the factory upstream. i dont remember changing this out at all. ill try this and see what happends