CMCKENNA runs the most expensive wires you can buy....Magnecor (160 bucks).

He also runs the most expensive spark plugs...pulstar iridiums (15.99 each). He told me that they were very noticeable above brand new NGKs. He bought both spark plugs and was going to return the pulstars if they were not better. He couldn't believe they actually were better.

So, he actually bought the most expensive tuneup parts.

 

Back to OP. sor simple bolt ons that will give you a nice bump that you will be plenty happy with:
1. SCT Tune from Hemifever (265 dollars for three canned tunes at whatever octanes you want). Use a 180* thermostat.
2. 50mm throttle body.
3. 1.7 roller rockers if you are keeping stock style heads.
4. 1.7 adjustable roller rockers if you are getting the edelbrock heads (Can't use 1.7 bolt on rockers).


If I were you, email rich at Hi-potek. He has everything you will need.
http://stores.hi-potek.com/StoreFront.bok

Get the tuner from Hemifever.
http://www.hemifevertuning.com/Produ...ctCode=SCT-Can

--Dan

 

He also went over the top with colorful cmc machined fuel rails and such that dont net any hp gains either...he was a perfectionist.(they usually are a touch OCD) and cost and practicality werent on the top of his list. He admitted that a time or two...
My point was he tested MSD and they tested very poorly with equipment...no better in many cases then cheap wires.... He aslo said if ran via the TSB the cheaper oem style wires would perform just fine in stock conditions at stock rpm levels.... Either way we are splitting hairs... expensive wires and plugs dont really do much for performance if your driving it with a stock type manufactured coil...most people and dyno machines would agree... There are better ways to invest the money...

SCT "canned" tunes gain about 4hp over deathflash (with 93octane tune which keeps costing more$$) with almost exact power curve according to multiple dyno tests beeker recently posted so... to me thats pretty disappointing for the costs involved. Just to put things in perspective going from stock champion plugs to colder range autolite plugs has been shown on a dyno to produce larger HP gains than 4hp.... removing your muffler can get you as much as 10hp...

a larger throttlebody can actually lose a bit of power in the normal driving and lower range... unless combined with other mods together to use the added air like a better flowing exhaust and heads combined with more fuel ..

The rockers are the best bet with between 7 to 15hp real proven gains...

 

I don't know about any increase in hp, but over the years I have tested various wires, starting with a 429 in a Mustang many years ago, and a little more recently, in my 96 Yota. I have tested everything from Bosch, Accel, MSD, and numerous others. The MSD were the best on my Yota (OEM is Bosch). The testing included using oscilloscope on electrical system for electromagetic interference, and testing did not include dyno. I also use MSD on my Jag and my RV (454 Chevy).

I therefore put MSD on my Ram, but have not done testing. But I am satisified with them. The Bosch were the best over any brand on a VW Beetle.

Result: some wires have noticeable differences between different engines. I cannot make a claim that one is better than others for these trucks, but price is not always the best indicator. But really cheap wires should be avoided. Gotta find what it right for your application.

 

Back in the day, when many of you fellers dads were kids we had to have white mud flaps with a chrome bar on the bottom and a blue light on it. Unbelievable power gains on our flat head V8s!!

 

Too many trips down memory lane......hope i can remember my way back! lol......

 

I am agreeing with you, the only thing I mentioned was that he noted better performance from only the best spark plugs and best wires. Everything else was a push.

I also agree with what you were saying about having a stock coil. Basically the only thing with ignition that will help performance is having that coil which will allow you to have slightly more gap in your plugs. The thing that kills me is that people seem to install spark plugs OUT OF THE BOX without checking gap. I know that most spark plugs I get are gapped anywhere from .25-.35 out of all eight. I gap at .43.

MSD boxes are a waste of money. True I have one, but it was leftover from my camaro build so I had one on hand for "free." (and that build was the works Heads, cam, timing gears, MSD box, coil, dist, roller rockers, hardened pushrods, single plane intake, Holley carb). If you are going to get a MSD box, do it because you aren't doing anything else but you still want something to do.

BACK TO OP: Injectors
I would stay with the stock injectors you have once your build is done. Get a wideband O2 (192.00 from teamc) and see if you are in fact lean. If you are not lean, stay with what you have. If you are lean, you can go with some bosch generation III injectors. The 19 lb injectors can be used with stock magnums, however flow rates are usually tested at 39-43.5PSI and we run 49-50PSI. So a 19 lb injector will flow at 21 lbs and a 24 will flow at 25.5 lbs. You don't want to be rich because it is a pain to step down from there. Hence, I say do the injectors last AFTER everything is done and you can test the mixture. Merc had a lean spot in his magnum after his mods and was running stock injectors. He added 24# injectors and the lean spot went away. So you can POSSIBLY be "safe" with 24# injectors with a mild cam and heads. But the drawback is that you will run rich and will NEED to spend the extra 100 to hemifever for custom tuning to dial down the duty cycle.

Take small steps (Unless you are getting WAY radical like a stroker or boost).

 

Its funny you should mention the injectors as mine were pretty plugged up and I believe thats the cause on my #1 misfire codes under load and popping...I ordered the generation 3 injectors but am actually unsure of which ones they are sending me as far as size....the Bosch "703" gen 3 injectors seem to be the best size for upgrade for otherwise stock setups in the jeep forums... they come in some of the neons and can be used in the magnums as well as jeep 4.0L setups...from what I've read they are avaliable in EV1 style and the newer EV6 style plug configuration...

 

Ah, here is some info:

Yellow ones: 19# @ 43.5 PSI STOCK REPLACEMENT but 4 hole upgrade
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...d&productId=81



Blue ones: 24# @ 43.5PSI (25.5@ 49PSI) (Heads AND cam)
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...&productId=191



Both of those are EV1 connectors. I spliced in EV1 style pigtails to my 24# injectors in my 2001.

Just so you can see, the 24s DUMP TOO MUCH FUEL. I had to have Sean trim my fuel TWICE before my wideband actually took a reading (lowest is 10:1, so I was probably running 8:1).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Emnax2J4FX4

I have the ones on the far left (Discontinued for design III and are solid blue like the yellow ones are solid yellow). The 19lb ones are the solid yellow ones third from right. OH, and our stock inectors are the pencil type like the third from the left. So yeah, that is a big reason our economy is pretty bad.

 

The most interesting thing about the video is that the Bosch IIIs flew at 22lbs at 43PSI. So that means you will be flowing about 23lbs in our trucks.

Aand, as some people have researched, the flow rates of injectors, YEAR TO YEAR on our secondgens seem to be different every year for the same engines.

GOOD TIP FOR INJECTOR FITMENT PROBLEMS: Good use of second O-ring
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaYtP...8&feature=plcp