The thick cut gears are for use on the 4.10 and down carrier. (which I would guess is what you have.)

A selectable locker for the front would be a better plan, albeit, more expensive.... ARB, or something similar.....

 

It was me that said I have killed a couple of Detroit lockers but that was in the rear diff, I have never had any problems with the front DL, and the one's that did go bad were replaced on warranty. I am extremely hard on my truck in the winter, deep wet snow can and will find any weak part and kill it fast. ARB are very nice parts and would be the best for a more DD over the DL.

 

I'd love to do ARBs, but theyre ove $1000 an axle
and I have 3.55s I guess thats what you were talking about hey you.

Also I dont know what axle I have in the rear, Yukon site said non circular (don't know what shape) diff cover meant 9.25 (I think, I know it was 9something) but ARB site says I have 8.25

 

Sorry to say but no ARB for the Dodge 91/4 rear diff, But you can get the ARB for the Dana 44. Please add 1500, 2500 or 3500 to your sig

 

So I do have 9 1/4. guess I'll start on the rear with a detroit and keep it out of 4wd till I can afford the front and decide from there. Thank you

 

You are Welcome.

You can always put the new gears in the front to match the back without installing a new front Dl or some type of locker in the front, then when you can afford the locker for the front then just switch the gears to the new Dl or locker when you get one. That way you can still use 4x4.

 

If I try to put in the new differencial after the ring and pinion won't I have to get the backlash reset again? I know its not something I have the skill or pacience for so I dont really want to have to pay for it twice ya know, unless you don't have to....

 

Are those axles set up to just bolt underneath your truck or do you have to a lot of work to get them to fit, I think they are about the wildest set up I've ever seen and I see almost no drawbacks to them

 

As with any axle swap, custom brackets must be welded into place. Also special consideration must be taken when building a link-style suspension, as the portals put massive amounts of leverage on the links, and will break them if not correctly set up.

 

These are not a bolt in diff by any means. That said I am having them built to be just a bolt in but that added about $500 per diff to get set-up to bolt in. New spring mounts, new link brackets, centered pumpkin for the rear diff, convert to disc brakes is the real wallet killer. The cost is very big but I think it is well worth it in the long run. As I get them I will take pix so you can see what work is involved. I might do a DIY if there is any interest from other members.

Edit: This is going to be a long project I figure about a year before all is said and done, The truck they are going under is a 96 rc/sb 2nd gen, Keep your eye's open on what motor will be going in it.
Hint BBM Hemi,203/205 double down t case set-up