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fuel injector replacement

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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 04:25 PM
  #21  
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i have no idea how to ohm test or volt test or do any testing with my meter lol. i bought it figuring i'd need it but never used it...and i wanted new, since everything that's going in this is new, figured not to go cheap on something that important. i understand i want them to match. i bought the two to troubleshoot which set me back 70 each lol but i figured if it worked, i'd have new ones in there. and over the next couple months, i'd buy two at a time until i can replace them all
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 04:29 PM
  #22  
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You are better off buying injectors as a set...... preferably, from someplace that at least makes the attempt to get you flow matched injectors.... mixing and matching can make for some interesting driveability problems.

To ohm test an injector, set your meter on the lowest resistance range greater than 12.... then, just put one probes on the pins the injector connector hook up to. (doesn't matter which way, either way will give a good reading.) If they are off by a good chunk, they are bad. Since the all live in the same environment..... if two or more are bad, it's a good idea to replace them all. (buying as a set can also be cheaper than buying them a couple at a time.)

Have you done a compression check on the engine? Having your misfire on two cylinders that are right next to each other is kinda bad........
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 04:36 PM
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the ones's i bought don't come as a set. they are supposed to be identical. that's the only reason i got them. and it's hard to find the stock replacements that are new condition. dodge only had refurbs too. i'm for sure won't mix and match.

i haven't done a compression test. unfortunately this motor didn't come with the birth certificate that had all that on it. i thought about it but was hoping since it's new that i wouldn't have huge issues to deal with lol

thanks for the tutorial. i'll go see what i find...

oh and the only injector test that i did myself was putting the stethoscope on them. couldn't find any huge differences. just wanted to see if they were working at all
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 04:47 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ekaplan
the ones's i bought don't come as a set. they are supposed to be identical. that's the only reason i got them. and it's hard to find the stock replacements that are new condition. dodge only had refurbs too. i'm for sure won't mix and match.

i haven't done a compression test. unfortunately this motor didn't come with the birth certificate that had all that on it. i thought about it but was hoping since it's new that i wouldn't have huge issues to deal with lol

thanks for the tutorial. i'll go see what i find...

oh and the only injector test that i did myself was putting the stethoscope on them. couldn't find any huge differences. just wanted to see if they were working at all
less than like 2% of injectors actually fail most just get clogged up...refurbished ones are fine and have all the stuff that does wear out addresssed as well as being tested and matched up with others to make a flow tested mached set... I upgraded to a set of bosch 703 injectors but in your case for ease and simplicity I would just get the factory replacements since the fuel synce has to be adjusted with 4 hole design ones. Or if your on a budget just remove your old ones and mark the ones your having issues with and spray gumout into the inlet holes and clean them out with qtips to remove crud from the fuel screens.... then reinstall the questionable one in another spot...use vasoline or motor oil on the o rings when reinstalling them..you can replace them if you like but honestly my old ones arent damaged from when I removed them so they can be reused in most cases fine. if your misfire codes move that was your issue and if not you know your issue is something else ...
I'm assuming you have done the cap/rotor/wires and a leakdown test and checked compression to rule out head or ring issues right? I am troubleshooting a misfire issue too and found leakdown test kits are $25 at harbor freight and work well as well as compression test kits for $20... directions for how to use them properly can be found on youtube.
 

Last edited by Augiedoggy; Feb 26, 2012 at 04:49 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 04:56 PM
  #25  
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Yep, all the "tune up" stuff is new. The motor is only a month old. That's the only reason I haven't went into compression or leakdown testing. When I pulled the pan on last motor all my pistons were in pieces and this one is having a miss so was trying to avoid it happening again due to somethin external. It will be a bitch to get warranty to replace if I had fuel injectors dumping fuel lol
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 04:57 PM
  #26  
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But doing those tests would def be cheaper than buying injectors and not needing them. Everything that I haven't replaced has 85k miles so I figured they were due anyway
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ekaplan
But doing those tests would def be cheaper than buying injectors and not needing them. Everything that I haven't replaced has 85k miles so I figured they were due anyway
mine had 150k on them...
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Augiedoggy
mine had 150k on them...
Watch your mouth lol
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 05:27 PM
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Ohm check on driver side reads 1,3,5 at 14 or 14.1. 7 reads 12.9
 
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 05:28 PM
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I've been told greater than .5 from each other is bad. Is that correct? What is the norm to begin with?
 
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