Which wheel cylinder for non-towing app?
A lot of guys on here seem to be happy upgrading from the 15/16" to the 1 1/16' wheel cylinders. My concern is that the rear end of my truck is pretty wonky already and since I don't tow I'm not sure that the upgrade is a good idea.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
I'm just afraid that the rear end will lock up, making for less effective braking. I've had it lock up on me before when not on pavement.
Any brake system must be capable of locking up the wheels under all conditions expected. That is pretty much the definition of an adequate brake system.
Non-pavement is a low traction situation ... if your truck can't lock up on gravel, it's a death trap on pavement.
Braking distance under lockup will be longer than braking at the onset of lockup (maximum brake pressure but just below the lockup pressure, shortest, requires driver skill) or under control of ABS (rapid lockup and unlock, next shortest, requires little driver skill) but it's right there at #3.
Lockup on gravel can be pretty alarming, and any lockup introduces control issues. But control and braking are related, not the same thing; inadequate brakes give you awesome steering control, right up to impact.
If I experience some unexpected behaviour in a vehicle I generally do some moderate speed driving when safe to do so while going about my ordinary driving, and try to get a feel for how the vehicle wants to react and what I can do about it. A vehicle doesn't react the same way at 30 mph as it does at 70, but a little practice at 30 definitely prepares you for 70 far more than no practice does.
Non-pavement is a low traction situation ... if your truck can't lock up on gravel, it's a death trap on pavement.
Braking distance under lockup will be longer than braking at the onset of lockup (maximum brake pressure but just below the lockup pressure, shortest, requires driver skill) or under control of ABS (rapid lockup and unlock, next shortest, requires little driver skill) but it's right there at #3.
Lockup on gravel can be pretty alarming, and any lockup introduces control issues. But control and braking are related, not the same thing; inadequate brakes give you awesome steering control, right up to impact.
If I experience some unexpected behaviour in a vehicle I generally do some moderate speed driving when safe to do so while going about my ordinary driving, and try to get a feel for how the vehicle wants to react and what I can do about it. A vehicle doesn't react the same way at 30 mph as it does at 70, but a little practice at 30 definitely prepares you for 70 far more than no practice does.
Any brake system must be capable of locking up the wheels under all conditions expected. That is pretty much the definition of an adequate brake system.
Non-pavement is a low traction situation ... if your truck can't lock up on gravel, it's a death trap on pavement.
Braking distance under lockup will be longer than braking at the onset of lockup (maximum brake pressure but just below the lockup pressure, shortest, requires driver skill) or under control of ABS (rapid lockup and unlock, next shortest, requires little driver skill) but it's right there at #3.
Lockup on gravel can be pretty alarming, and any lockup introduces control issues. But control and braking are related, not the same thing; inadequate brakes give you awesome steering control, right up to impact.
If I experience some unexpected behaviour in a vehicle I generally do some moderate speed driving when safe to do so while going about my ordinary driving, and try to get a feel for how the vehicle wants to react and what I can do about it. A vehicle doesn't react the same way at 30 mph as it does at 70, but a little practice at 30 definitely prepares you for 70 far more than no practice does.
Non-pavement is a low traction situation ... if your truck can't lock up on gravel, it's a death trap on pavement.
Braking distance under lockup will be longer than braking at the onset of lockup (maximum brake pressure but just below the lockup pressure, shortest, requires driver skill) or under control of ABS (rapid lockup and unlock, next shortest, requires little driver skill) but it's right there at #3.
Lockup on gravel can be pretty alarming, and any lockup introduces control issues. But control and braking are related, not the same thing; inadequate brakes give you awesome steering control, right up to impact.
If I experience some unexpected behaviour in a vehicle I generally do some moderate speed driving when safe to do so while going about my ordinary driving, and try to get a feel for how the vehicle wants to react and what I can do about it. A vehicle doesn't react the same way at 30 mph as it does at 70, but a little practice at 30 definitely prepares you for 70 far more than no practice does.
Brakes are one of those things you shouldn't mess with unless you really understand. Most of you braking is done with the front wheels, stronger rear brakes that lock up long before the front are not good, this means you aren't utilizing the more effective front brakes and you have probably decreased your stopping distance.
If I was to upgrade my brakes I would find out what I want to change instead of reading what a few people on a forum thought was a good idea. find a empty parking lot, test your brakes, see what's locking up first, have someone else drive it so you can see this from outside the truck. Then read more about how brake bias will effect the handling in general. I would install a adjustable proportioning valve before anything else.
If I was to upgrade my brakes I would find out what I want to change instead of reading what a few people on a forum thought was a good idea. find a empty parking lot, test your brakes, see what's locking up first, have someone else drive it so you can see this from outside the truck. Then read more about how brake bias will effect the handling in general. I would install a adjustable proportioning valve before anything else.
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That's what ABS is for but the best way to not lock up during a panic stop is is to get to know your brakes better, test the limits in a controlled environment, wet, dry asphalt and concrete if possible. Brakes that can't lock up are unsafe.
Overall, you come across as trying to justify not upgrading the rear cylinders, so this thread is pointless.











