My driveshaft departed from the truck
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Gainesville, Ga.
i'd replace that yoke.
my limited experience with replacing pinion seals is that the torque is super tight, and beyond my limited ability to measure it. this is how i've done it...
jack up vehicle, remove tires, adjust out or push back brake calipers to remove brake drag. to be scientific, use a 1/4 inch beam style torque wrench and measure the rotational resistance of the pinion. not the breakover amount, but the sustained amount of rotation. it'll be something like 25 inch pounds (check manual). using a punch, make a reference mark on both the pinion shaft and pinion nut and count the exposed threads. place a drain pan under the diff, block the pinion or wheels and use an impact wrench to remove the pinion nut. it'll be 200+ pounds. remove yoke, might require a hammer. replace seal. use a good National brand, not a cheapy and not a timken. replace pinion and retorque nut back to the original punch mark, and then go another approx 1/8 round. measure the rotational torque, it should be back to the same approx 25 inch pounds (check this I might be off some).
i'd also remove diff cover and inspect everything. clean the magnet, look for surprises, change the fluid.
my limited experience with replacing pinion seals is that the torque is super tight, and beyond my limited ability to measure it. this is how i've done it...
jack up vehicle, remove tires, adjust out or push back brake calipers to remove brake drag. to be scientific, use a 1/4 inch beam style torque wrench and measure the rotational resistance of the pinion. not the breakover amount, but the sustained amount of rotation. it'll be something like 25 inch pounds (check manual). using a punch, make a reference mark on both the pinion shaft and pinion nut and count the exposed threads. place a drain pan under the diff, block the pinion or wheels and use an impact wrench to remove the pinion nut. it'll be 200+ pounds. remove yoke, might require a hammer. replace seal. use a good National brand, not a cheapy and not a timken. replace pinion and retorque nut back to the original punch mark, and then go another approx 1/8 round. measure the rotational torque, it should be back to the same approx 25 inch pounds (check this I might be off some).
i'd also remove diff cover and inspect everything. clean the magnet, look for surprises, change the fluid.
Last edited by dhvaughan; Apr 19, 2012 at 10:40 AM.
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So, since we're completely off topic here, I noticed the OP's name is Moss500Berg, and I'm going to take it further off topic. I assume you own a mossberg 500, and would like your opinion, plus the opinions of any others that feel like chiming in. I'll be in the market to buy my first shotgun here soon, and I've been going back n forth with the mossberg 500 and the 535. The 535 shoots 2 3/4, 3, and 3 1/2 inch shells, where the 500 only shoots 2 3/4 and 3 inch shells. The 535 also weighs in at 6.75 lbs, where the 500 weighs in at 7.5 lbs. For those reasons, I'm leaning toward the 535, but the 500 has been around for ages, and from reviews I've read is a great gun. There aren't too many reviews for the 535. This next season will be my 2nd season hunting. Last season, after finally taking hunters safety at the age of 26, I borrowed a mossberg 500 from a guy at work, but I swear there are no pheasants left in Nebraska, so I didn't even get to shoot it. After walking a good 5 miles worth of fields on 3 different expeditions, the 7.5 pound 500 wasn't a burden by any means, but 6.75lbs would be nice. This year, I'll be turkey hunting, and pheasant hunting, and 3 inch shells are plenty large enough for both birds. Although I still have a full box of 2 3/4 inch shells, that didn't get used last season. I'm very inexperienced, and don't even know what you'd be shooting with 3 1/2 inch shells. Both guns are nearly the same price, but do you think it'd be worthwhile to invest in the gun, that can fire all 3 shells??? Or just stick with the well reviewed 500, and call it a day?
And thanks for the help man! This thread got derailed haha
BTW the yoke is OFF and going to the driveshaft people TODAY
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
Hey, did you get another shaft yet? If not, where ya at, and is your truck a short bed? Guy near me is parting out a 97, and has the driveshaft laying under the truck. (center punched a deer...... totaled the truck.)
OP: Take it back to yourself and beat yourself over the head with the driveshaft, scream at yourself something about poor installation, and DEMAND a refund. Then don't leave your driveway until you have refunded yourself or fixed your truck. That will teach you.
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Omaha, NE
ROFL, Can you imagine being his neighbor as all this is going on. I'd be rollin'
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And the driveshaft place has to order me a new yoke from Cali, should be here in 1-3 more days. Because apparently we dont have a single one in the state of Oklahoma anywhere.
I try to put on new parts as much as possible, to bump up the trucks value as much as possible to counter the rediculous milage on the odometer. I have thought about getting a junkyard gauge cluster with less miles on it haha
