It will sound good, and may prompt you to NOT put the rest of the exhaust on........

It may draw exhaust into the cab... so, pay attention to that. You aren't going far, so, just be careful.

 

uh oh..haha i got kids though so i dont want exhaust coming in.

 

Should be able to. Or drive there without it unless you live somewhere they'll write you a ticket right away. If you have the stuff with you and explain, I would think a decent cop would let you get by with it since you are going to get it fixed.

 

so it wont hurt anytihng to drive it without even the cat hooked up?

 

Nope. It will be even louder though......

 

Ok started it up to make sure nothing was leaking after the main seal,timing chain,plenum and misc..WOW yes it was loud..Sounded like a monster truck...well a lil version.haha. Engine threw 4 codes which freaked me out but i checked them briefly and they appear to be 02 codes.
po132
po135
po138
po141
is this correct? I didnt have my o2 or cat hooked up so thats why they came on. Also a couple more things, i seen specifically on #8 cylinder, the metal boot protector was arcing against the head or headers, what would cause this? And one more thing i was trying to get the air out of the coolant system and everytime i gave it gas the coolant would drop and id fill it up again. Is this just from the torque getting the air out or something?

 

Sounds like you have a bad spark plug wire if you can see it arc. They will melt if they get too close to the header/manifold. Or possibly a bad plug that is rerouting the spark out of a bad wire since the plug won't fire.

O2 codes are expected when they aren't plugged in. I'm surprised it even ran since the pcm gets information from the upstream O2 sensor to spray the right amount of gas into the cylinders.

When you rev the engine it speeds up the water pump so the level in the radiator will drop, that's normal. It takes my truck about 20 minutes for the thermostat to open with the cap off then another 20 minutes before it does it again. The way you can tell that it opened is there will be a little steam coming out of the radiator and the level will drop.

As far as the exhaust goes, heat isn't required. I popped an old glass pack off my truck one time with a come along. I had the crease from the exhaust clamp and ran into the same issue as you, I worked at it for about 1 minute before I hooked the come along up to the rear axle and the front of the glass pack. A couple cranks and a nice little pop later and the glass pack was disconnected.

I ran into the same issue when taking the muffler off my Camaro too, a while after doing the come along trick on the truck. On the Camaro I just split the pipe like a banana with the Dremel the peeled the cut pieces back with pliers and the muffler came off easily.

If you just hack it off at the crease then clamp your new catalytic converter on then you could drive it to an exhaust shop to get it welded. They shouldn't charge more than $30 since all they have to do is weld. I've never gotten an exhaust clamp to completely seal (for longer than a week anyway).

 

plugs and wires are new, i got the autolite plugs and taylor 8.2 thundervolt wires. I can see a small spark at the base of the metal sleeve protector sparking against the head. Plugs and wires should be good. As far as the exhaust goes, how would i pull straight towards the front with a come a long when the pipe is round, wouldnt it just slide off?

 

When I used a come along I wrapped it around the front of the glass pack (pulling to the rear) and because it is bigger than the pipe the come along had something to catch on.

I didn't bother with it when I had the same issue on the Camaro because a dremel and four cuts through the outer pipe is a little easier and safer. Do you have a dremel tool? A Dremel is the headache free way to go.

 

yea i have a dremel but ill have to get a couple cut off discs, those things are brittle. I was thinking of cutting it like you said i might go that way